Kalle Shirtdress

 

IMG_5281.jpgI made the newest pattern by Closet Case Files – the Kalle Shirtdress. The fabric is an amazing viscose poplin that I got from Blackbird fabrics (sadly sold out). I graded out this pattern from a size 2 at the bust to a size 10 at the hips but other than that I did not make any pattern adjustments. I typically also shorten by 2 inches at least but for this I decided not to because the side comes up quite a bit and I wanted to make sure my legs were covered enough. Next time I’ll definitely shorten though, but I may decide to bring the side curve down a bit. You can see a good amount of thigh here – I’m not sure I’m brave enough to show two more inches.

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I tried hard to pattern match on this one and while it isn’t perfect by any means, I am really happy with the outcome. Because this fabric is relatively shifty  it was difficult to keep things lined up when cutting it out. Check it out!!!

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I tried to match across the button band as well as the pocket. You can tell that the pocket is not quite in the right place because I really was so excited about my pattern matching. I guess I could have recut the pocket so it was in the right place and also pattern matched but that didn’t really seem like fun.

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I didn’t bother matching the front/back sides or the yoke/ back since there was no way I’d get those to line up. While I was making this  but before I put the collar on I was worried that it would look like a mumu. Since there was nothing breaking up the pattern and due to the general shape of the garment the print ended up being a little overwhelming. Adding the collar and buttons definitely helped give this dress more interest and structure so I don’t think it looks like a mumu anymore! However – it did make me think that maybe sometimes pattern matching isn’t such a great idea…

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I took these pictures while camping at Harrington Beach State Park, which is on Lake Michigan in Wisconsin. It was so beautiful there but super hot this past weekend. This dress really was great to wear because the fabric hangs pretty far away from your body so it really keeps you cool.

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Low Rise Ginger Jeans and Speckled Lark

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This is the low rise version of the Ginger Jeans pattern by Closet Case Files. I made my first pair of Ginger jeans about a year ago now. That time I made the high waisted version so I wanted to make the low rise ones this time. All of the other jeans I own are low or mid rise so I think these will be more my style. I’m also using a much darker denim this time around which matches more with what I typically wear. I think these are really going to be a staple in my wardrobe!

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The fabric is cone mills dark indigo stretch denim that I ordered online from Fancy Tiger crafts a while ago. The fabric is a lot thicker than my last pair of jeans and this pair also has a lot better recovery than my last pair! I used this gray topstitching thread because I wanted a little more of a subtle look than traditional jeans topstitching. I think my next pair is going to be a slightly lighter indigo with traditional gold topstitching thread though.

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I grade the pattern from a size 8 at the waist to a size 10 at the waist. I also shortened the legs by 1.5 inches. I went ahead and made a slight sway back adjustment to both the back yoke piece and the waistband piece. I am making view A for the low rise but I still want the skinny legs so I took 1/2 inch off of each side of the ankle, grading up to the knee.

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These jeans fit pretty well but there are some more adjustments that I’ve made to my pattern for the next time:

  • Increased the amount of curve in the waistband and yoke to account for slight gaping.
  • Shortened the legs by 1 inch.
  • Shortened the crotch curve by 1/4 inch.

There is also some bagging at the knee that I haven’t decided how to remedy for my next pair.

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As an added bonus I’m also wearing a Lark Tee by Grainline Studio. This may be my most worn t-shirt in my wardrobe. I just realized I finished this almost an entire year ago! I used a speckled jersey from Fancy Tiger. This time I made the scoop neck version with cap sleeves. Otherwise I used all of the same pattern modifications as my past versions. I think in the future I might try going up a size or doing some sort of wide shoulder adjustment since there isn’t quite enough room in the shoulders.

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