My first pair of Closet Case Files Ginger Jeans was my high waisted pair followed by my low rise cone mills denim pair. For this pair I used cone mills denim again but this time I used a slightly lighter weight denim. I also decided to use the traditional gold topstitching thread this time around.
From my last pair I made a large calf adjustment and I added a bit more of a curve to the yoke and waistband to account for my sway back. I also shortened the crotch curve slightly.
This time around I finally figured out how to make bar tacks that don’t just end up with a huge thread nest underneath or completely jamming up my machine!!! The trick for me was to loosen the bobbin tension significantly. From there I used a .5 length and a 1.5 width. Honestly – this is a jeans making game-changer for me. I would always get so frustrated with bar tacks in the past because they would always jam up my machine and I’d have to seam rip them. removing the dense stitching was making the fabric weaker instead of reinforcing the spot.
Although I’m pretty happy with this pair there is still a good amount of extra fabric around my outer knee that I’d like to try and get rid for my next pair. After I made this pair I thought I might need a knock knee adjustment. I don’t think I have knock knees but I may have full inner thighs, which also would mean that I need the legs to angle slightly more towards the center. There is a tutorial on the Closet Case Files Blog or I considered using this tutorial, which would shift the lower leg towards the inseam. However, this would also lengthen the inseam and I have extra fabric around the inseam too. I ended up drawing a line in chalk where the knee should be on my jeans and it is actually a half inch to low. I think the issue is that my legs are just shorter, so I’m going to try just shortening my leg above the knee for my next pair and hopefully that does the trick! I also wanted a slightly closer fit around the ankle so I took off 1/4 inch from each side of the seams and tapered up to nothing at the knee.
I’m super happy with how these turned out – I think I’m really starting to get close to getting them how I want them to fit.