Franken PJs

I love wearing nightgowns to sleep in. They are just the most comfortable PJs. However, I wanted something that stayed around my legs instead of something that ended up getting twisted up while I slept. I wanted a nightgown with pants on the bottom.

IMG_6060

My major inspiration for this romper was the Sunday Romper from Smash and Tess. Since I’m such a pair shape I’m guessing that  if I bought a ready to wear romper like this it would be too tight in the hips causing the fabric to bunch up around waist.

IMG_6066

I used the Grainline Studio Lark tee pattern and the Hudson Pants to hack together this romper. To get in and out of this romper you have to go through the neck hole so I knew I was going to have to make the neckline bigger. I still haven’t mastered my coverstitch machine – the hems on the sleeves and pants are a little wonky but since this was just a muslin of PJs I’m not too worried.

IMG_6071

Pattern modifications:

Lark tee modifications:

  • Sized up 1 size from my bust measurement which put me at a size 6
  • Deepened the v-neck – To do this I started by tracing the largest size neck line but this didn’t seem deep enough so I slid the pattern down an additional inch and traced 1 inch deeper than the largest size.
  • Added center front and center back seams to the lark tee. This means the pattern pieces will not be cut on the fold but would instead need seam allowance added on. I traced the pattern pieces and added 1/4″ seam allowance to the center front seam.
  • Flared out the sleeves slightly – I slashed and spread the sleeves to give a slight flutter to the sleeve but its a little too subtle so I’d do a bit more for my next version.
  • Straightened out the side seams a bit for less shaping at the waist

Hudson Pants modifications:

  • I cut the Hudson Pants based on my hip measurements which put me at a size 10
  • The Hudson Pants have a slashed pocket. I changed the pocket so that it is in the side seam instead. When I traced the pants front piece I taped the pocket piece behind so I could trace them as one.
  • I then had to modify the pocket slightly to make up for the fact that it wasn’t being sewn in to the waistband. I just extended the curve of the pocket to where the side seam would hit.
  • I wanted the capri length pant but I didn’t want to use the cuff so I extended the leg length by the length of the cuff and made sure the leg tapered in to approximately the width of the cuff.
  • I also dropped the crotch curve by an inch to make for a slightly more slouchy look

Combining the Patterns:

To combine the top and the bottom I laid the Lark front on top of the hudson front, overlapping the patterns a couple of inches since I figured my t-shirt would overlap with my pants a couple of inches. I made sure that I was overlapping the same amount for the front and the back. I lined up the center fronts and taped them together. I then smoothed out the curve from the top to meet the hips of the Hudsons.

And that is all for pattern modifications! On to sewing!!

IMG_6065

Sewing:

The Hudson pants have a 3/8″ seam allowance but the lark tee has a 1/4″ seam allowance. I decided not to do anything to the pattern pieces to account for this but just to sew at the 1/4″ seam allowance since a little extra room in the pants is not going to hurt.

Here are the general order that I followed, which is not very detailed. Let me know if you have any questions!

  1. Sew shoulder front seams to shoulder back seams
  2. Sew sleeves in flat
  3. Sew pockets to front and back pieces, matching at notch
  4. Sew side seams, going around the pockets
  5. Sew leg inseams
  6. Sew back together, stopping at the crotch seam
  7. Sew neck binding around neck while it is still open
  8. Sew front seam
  9. Hem legs and sleeves
Advertisements

The Search for Undies continues…

Last time I tried to make underwear it did not go well. I had underwear on my list for my 2018 make 9 because I really want to be able to wear an entirely me-made outfit. It is crazy that I’ve made many bras and pairs of jeans that I wear constantly but still haven’t made a pair of underwear that fits. This time around I tried the Watson Bikini pattern by Cloth Habit using fabric scraps left over from my yoga cloth Avery Leggings. I used picot elastic left over from some bra kits.

IMG_2685.jpg

Overall this is a huge improvement from my last attempt. However, there is still some extra fabric in the back, giving them some granny panties vibes. I’m not sure if this is just a sizing issue or a sway back issue or a combination. I take my hip measurement slightly below where my hips meet my torso because that is the widest part of my body.However, my underwear don’t need to fit my thighs. Next time I’m going to use a measurement from higher up to figure out my size.

IMG_2686

I don’t think I’m going to make a sway back adjustment just yet though because I’m hoping that will get me a little closer to a better fit. I think I’ll try this pattern again in a smaller size but if that doesn’t work I might try a different style. I’m hoping that I won’t have as much of an issue from the sway back with a hipster version.

IMG_2688

 

Grainline Cascade Duffle Coat

I made this Grainline Cascade Duffle coat using some wool fabric that I bought last year (2016) at Mood while in NYC after camp workroom social. I wanted a bit of a warmer lining so I got some Kasha Satin lining from Vogue Fabric Store per Closet Case Pattern’s suggestion. I used a medium weight tricot interfacing also from Vogue Fabric Store.

IMG_5979

I cut a size 4 at the bust, grading out to a size 8 at the hips. I also shortened the coat by 2 inches. Most pieces I only shortened by 1 inch each to distribute the shortening between the top and bottom pieces. I also shortened the arms by 1 inch. I sometimes shorten arms by 1 inch and sometimes by 2 inches but for this coat I decided on one inch because I figured I rather have coat sleeves a little too long than a little too short.

IMG_6026

Tracing all of the pattern pieces and cutting out the fabric was such a time consuming and daunting task but once those were done the coat came together more quickly than I expected.

IMG_5987

The parts that I struggled with the most were attaching the toggles and setting the sleeves. I made my own toggles which was pretty fun and not actually very hard once you have all of the supplies. To attach them I originally tired to use scotch tape the toggles in place but the two toggles that I wasn’t in the process of sewing on just fell off while I was sewing my first toggle. I also found it pretty hard to see what I was doing with the tape in the way. I had done a practice toggle but I didn’t realize how much more difficult sewing the toggles on to the jacket would be with the bulky jacket front to maneuver. I ended up using a fabric glue stick on my remaining 5 toggles and it went much better.

IMG_6020

The sleeve caps were very difficult to gather with the bulky wool across seams. It took a long time to gather them enough that they fit. I’m guessing longer stitch length would have made that easier but I used the longest setting on the machine I was using.

IMG_6023

The zipper installation was pretty similar to the Closet Case Files Kelly Anorak jacket I made a while ago so that part went together relatively easily. The fronts were about 1/4 inch off the first time I zipped it up so I had to re-do one side but that was a pretty quick fix.

IMG_6003

This was my first time bagging a lining and it definitely felt like magic! It really didn’t feel like it would be possible to turn everything right side out but I had totally missed the step of leaving a hole in one of the sleeves so that also added to the mystery of how it would all work.

IMG_5984

I’m super happy with how it came out! It looks like a normal wool coat that I would have bought at a store but this one isn’t too tight at the hips and the arms aren’t too long and it is the exact color I wanted it to be.

Scrappy Ogdens

The Ogden Cami by True Bias has been incredibly popular and it is easy to see why. It is a super flattering top that is pretty fast to sew up and it doesn’t use up a lot of fabric. I made my black and white diamond version out of leftover fabric from my hudson pants. Basically now if there is any project that I’ve completed with a woven pattern I’m always looking to see if I can get a Ogden Cami out of the leftover fabric. For each of these versions I’ve been able to barely cut the cami out of fabric but I don’t have enough for the partial lining. I just bought 1/4 yard of lining fabric for each version and (although sometimes its a smidge short) I’m able to fit the lining pieces on to that. The only change I made from my last version was I shortened the straps by about an inch and a half.

This version is made with leftover Liberty of London fabric that I used to make my Deer and Doe Datura blouse. The liberty fabric is quite busy so it is perfect for a tank top and I love wearing this version with a cardigan over it to break up the busy print even more.

Then I made a version out of leftover fabric from my chambray alder shirtdress. This version is such a good basic – easy to throw on with jeans and I think it will be really cute with shorts in the summer too.

For my final version (for now), I made a version out of leftover fabric from my Suki Kimono. I really loved this fabric! I know wearing a robe over jeans and a tee is pretty popular right now but I don’t think I’ll be wearing my version of the Suki that way. I’m so happy that I had just enough fabric to cut out this cami so I can wear this fabric outside of lounging around my apartment.

I’ll probably make 20 more of these in Summer. I love that this is like the “buy one get one free” feeling of getting a great deal when you are shopping but with home sewing! It feels super satisfying and like I’m getting free camis with each project!

Penny Raglan

IMG_6121

I made the Grainline Studio Penny Raglan out of leftover fabric from my lark tee. I love this bamboo knit and the Penny Raglan is the ultimate comfy tee shirt.

IMG_6136

I made a size 2 at the bust and graded out to a size 8 at the hips (totally unnecessary) and I also shortened it by 1″. If I make this again I think I’d make a straight size 0.

IMG_1245

This is one of the items I brought with me a year ago (yes I’m super behind on blogging) when I took a month long trip to Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia. It was so perfect in the hot weather especially for visiting temples in Angkor Wat where you need to have your shoulders covered. I wore this with my True Bias Hudson Pants for the ultimate temple exploring outfit.

Black Waterfall Raglan

You may have noticed this shirt from my post earlier this week on the Avery Leggings. This is the Chalk and Notch Waterfall Raglan made out of a rayon/lycra jersey from the imagine gnats shop.

IMG_6197

I loved making this shirt – it comes together pretty quickly. It is super comfortable and boxy with an added girly ruffle, which I love. It is super easy to wear and great for wearing over leggings since it is a bit longer.

IMG_6202

For my version I did not shorten the pattern even though that is something that I would typically do – I wanted it to be a bit longer. I love the way it came out!

IMG_6211

Avery Leggings Pattern Test

I have leggings on my 2018 make 9 but I wasn’t sure which pattern I wanted to use. I have previously made leggings using a self drafted pattern but I wasn’t sure if I wanted to keep using that or if I wanted to try a different pattern. When Helen asked if I wanted to be a tester for the Avery leggings I was super excited. They have a wide waist band and a gusset, which my self drafted leggings did not have. Because I’m pretty short I made view A for both pairs of leggings since I suspect that the super high waist would hit me in a weird place.

IMG_6219.jpg

I had some fabric in my stash that I was planning on making leggings out of but the fabric was just plain black, which isn’t very fun for pattern testing. The fabric I had in my stash also does not have the right stretch percentage. The biggest thing I learned in making this pattern is how important stretch percentage is! Make sure your fabrics have the right percentage! 70% is quite a bit so don’t just assume that because your fabric has spandex in it that it will work. This is particularly tough ordering fabrics online since many sites do not list stretch percentages. I ordered two different fabrics to test with from Stonemountain and Daughter without knowing the stretch percentages and I have pretty varied results.

IMG_6241

The first fabric I used was this incredible Yoga Cloth in Gray. This fabric is the perfect fabric for these leggings – it has the right amount of stretch! I’m 5′ 1 1/2″ and since the pattern is drafted for someone 5′ 6″ I shortened the legs by 1″. I normally would shorten pants by a little more but I would much rather have leggings that are slightly long than leggings that are slightly too short so I decided to err on the side of caution. They fit great! The waist definitely hits me above my belly button so even though this is view A because I’m so short it fits a bit more like view B, which I love.

IMG_6237

The second version I made was out of this pleather look scuba knit (WARNING: This fabric absolutely does not have enough stretch!) It looks like the color I used is sold out but they still have it in black. The fabric just barely stretches to 70% crosswise (but its definitely feels strained) and stretches to maybe 40% length wise. I decided to go for it anyway because I really liked the idea of pleather look leggings.

IMG_6169

For this version I did not shorten the legs by 1″ and I also did not hem them because hemming them would have made them too short! I’ve never had an issue with too short pants before but since it is a scuba knit it is totally fine to leave them unhemmed.

IMG_6208

I also used a smaller seam allowance to give myself a little more room. They are definitely a tad tight and not as comfortable as my yoga cloth ones but I love them anyway. If I was going to make leggings with this fabric again I think I would size up a full size and also make view B to give myself a longer waistband and longer leg length.

IMG_6176