Split Hem Linden Sweatshirt

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I got this amazing quilted knit fabric about a year and a half ago in the garment district in NYC. I used the Linden Sweatshirt pattern by Grainline Studio. I’ve made this pattern in the past twice – a black and white version with a split hem band and a cropped tropical version. It had been a long time since I made either of those and I forgot how much I like this pattern. It sews up super quickly and I absolutely love the way that all of my versions have turned out. My past two versions were made of fabrics that … I probably wouldn’t use again… I chose them more for the print/pattern than for the feel of the fabrics. But I still wear both of those sweatshirts all of time!

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I altered the pattern to have a split hem. I essentially just lengthened both the front and back pieces by different amounts. After I sewed the sleeves to the front and back pieces I finished the edges of the under arm/body pieces separately. I could then sew from the wrist up to the armpit and back down, stopping at the point I wanted my vent to start. I then hemmed the rest of the top, pivoting at the vents to sew the seam allowance down around both vents. I also lengthened the sleeves and omitted the cuffs on the sleeves. If I was going to make this again I would keep the cuffs because the seam on the sleeves is a little bulky and the hem cuff would at least contain the seam allowances at the wrists.

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The split goes pretty high and the back is a lot longer than a typical sweatshirt. I really like having the top lengthened because I like the drama of it and it makes it feel extra cosy.

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In the future I think I’d make a version out of a bamboo terry or a fabric that is a little softer since I think I would wear it so much. This version is super cosy and I love it but its a little bulky so its a little harder to wear.

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Hannah Dress

I made the Victory Patterns Hannah Dress this summer and I really love it so I’m going to post a lot of pictures.fullsizeoutput_169a

I got these two incredible linen fabrics from Stonemountain and Daughter when I was there over Thanksgiving last year. I’m so happy I got to go in person to pick out these fabrics so that I could be really sure that they matched.

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It seemed like everyone loved this dress when it came out but when I saw Heather from Closet Case Patterns post her version I totally fell in love. I love the super bold floral that she used and I knew I wanted to make something similar. I spent over a year looking for fabric when I finally found this! I also included this in my 2018 make 9 because this was something I knew I definitely wanted to make this year.

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This project was definitely challenging. I have made a couple of popover plackets before but this one is a hidden button one and there are just so many markings and things that need to line up in this pattern. The linen is a little bit of a looser weave and things shifted around a little bit but in the end I’m super happy with the result.

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I mean just look at how beautiful this fabric is. I love this abstract floral pattern with these crazy back pleats.

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Here is a picture of me wearing this dress with my hands not in the pockets. But woah those pockets are so great and just really magical.

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I did muslin this dress in part because I wanted to practice everything and in part because I hadn’t made a Victory Patterns pattern before. I’m glad I did because when I muslined I made a size 2 and I also shortened the dress I think by 2 inches. Instead of using the lengthen/shorten line I also added two lines in the bodice to lengthen and shorten by because I think that I am very clever and I wanted the proportions to stay the same. However, I did not shorten the contrasting color back pleats and it ended up being a little bunchy and weird. The dress was also just a smidge tight so I ended up going up to a size 4 and not shortening at all!

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I took these pictures with my tripod and a remote so I had no idea that my head was completely cut off in this one but since it is lets just take a minute to fully appreciate that hem. Its amazing.

Long Sleeve Double Gauze Hadley

fullsizeoutput_1647This is my first time making the Grainline Studio Hadley top. I made view A for this version using a Kokka double gauze fabric I got from Fancy Tiger. I made a straight size 2 and I shortened it by 1 inch. other than that I didn’t make any adjustments. (Clearly I finished this top a while back and took photos a while back since this is not what Wisconsin looks like right now!)

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I’m wearing this with my Lander shorts which I wore multiple times a week every week this summer. Maybe now that its cold out I should make some Lander pants?

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I love the back hemline and I’ve been super in to hem facings lately. I enjoy sewing them mostly but I also like the structure it provides. I think I’ve been sewing more of them lately because I’ve been making shirts with more dramatic hems. This shirt definitely has a lot of drama in the back – there is a lot of fabric back there. I like the shape but I worry that it is a little overwhelming. Normally I grade out at the hips because I’m pear shaped but I didn’t do that with this pattern because there is already so much fabric there.

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My main issue with this shirt is with the hook and eye closure – I can never get it to stay closed. I have this same problem on my Grainline Studio Farrow dress and I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong… Do I need a narrow shoulder adjustment or something so the back of my shirt moves around less? Or should I just switch to a button and loop? I really don’t know so for now I’ll just be re-hooking multiple times a day.

 

Underthings Round Up

I’ve made a few undergarments and they were pretty quick to sew up and I don’t really want to dedicate a whole post to each of them but I did want to document what I’ve made since it was one of my goals in my 2018 sew 9 to make more underwear!

This is the Evie La Luve Bella Lace Panties pattern made with scraps left over from the Madalynne Halter Bra I made a while back. I haven’t actually worn them yet but they are pretty comfy when I tried them on.

This is the Evie La Luve Esme Panties made with scraps from my Grainline Studio Penny Raglan and a Harriet Bra. Again, I haven’t worn these for a full day yet but so far they seem much better than my previous failed attempt at the Frankie Panties.

I also finally made a Watson Bra by Cloth Habit out of scraps left over from my pleather Avery Leggings. I’m definitely going to make a few adjustments for the next time I make it but so far it is pretty comfortable and supportive. There is a bit of extra fabric above the boob and some gaping by the arm hole but those should be pretty easy to fix!

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And if you want to know whether I am currently wearing my Watson Bra with my matching Avery Leggings… of course I am!! Unfortunately I’m not going to post pictures of  this amazing lounge outfit for you.

White Cheyenne Tunic

I made view B of the Cheyenne tunic by Hey June Patterns. I made a size S bust and graded out to a size M at the hips. I shortened the arms by 2 inches and I shortened the torso by 1 inch (I’m 5′ 1 1/2″). It seems like I probably could have shortened this another inch or two but I’m not sure how long tunics are supposed to be?

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I got this white cotton voile fabric from Imagine Gnats. This is pretty much an exact copy of a version by Fleurine from the Sew MarieFleur blog that I saw a while ago and had been stuck in my head ever since. I love that you can see through it but that also makes it a lot harder to wear.

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I love the beach-y vibes that this shirt gives off though I’m not sure how much I’ll be drawn to this top in the Wisconsin winter or fall. However, I definitely want to make a button up shirt version to wear this fall.

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I also love the tabs to keep your sleeves rolled up. Generally you don’t really need them but I think it is a nice detail on this shirt. Also this is my second time making a button placket and it went much better than my first time on my archer popover. This may be my new go-to pattern for when I want to make a popover.

Sleeveless Seamly Wrapped Cardigan

This is the Seamly Wrapped Cardigan from IndieSew. My sweater knit version of my seamly wrapped cardigan gets a ton of wear especially in the fall and winter. I made this version using a rayon/lycra knit from the Imagine Gnats store. This is actually the same fabric as my Chalk and Notch Waterfall raglan.

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I haven’t really been wearing this that much and I think its mostly because I just never remember to. If I’m trying to add something to add warmth I’m more likely to grab a cardigan with sleeves. This sleeveless cardigan looks nice but especially in such a thin fabric its not adding anything really practical to my outfit.

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It looks cute though (I even got a compliment from a really sweet woman in Home Depot) so maybe I just need to play around in my wardrobe and find certain outfits that it works with so that when I’m wearing a specific top I’ll be more likely to grab this to throw on top. Do you ever make a garment that you really like but it doesn’t get worn because it didn’t actually fill a need in your wardrobe? Hopefully I’ll figure out how to wear this in the near future!

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Red Lander Shorts

I’ve been wearing my Lander shorts almost every single day so I figured I needed another pair. I’ve been trying to use up fabric from my stash so when I came across this leftover fabric from my tulip skirt I decided to use it. Red wouldn’t necessarily be my first choice for shorts but since I was trying out some different things this time around I figured if it didn’t work out it wouldn’t be a big loss if it didn’t work out.

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I decided I wanted to try the fly front version. At first I thought I’d just get the expansion pack from True Bias but I made so many changes to my pattern already for fit I thought it actually may save me time to just try to hack it myself. I basically just traced the fronts with the fly piece overlapping the fronts, lining up the seam line.

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I followed the True Bias blog tutorial to change the pockets to be internal. I also added just a small amount additional amount of curve to the back of the waistband. Other than that those were the only changes.

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I followed the closet case patterns tutorial for the ginger jeans for installing the fly. I just ignored the steps for topstitching the second row.