Anna Dress/ Burnside Bibs Mash Up

Last week I posted about the dress I made that I was originally planning to wear to a wedding. When I found out that I needed to wear sage green to the wedding it was clear that I needed a plan B. Since I was already almost done making the Eve Dress I didn’t want to make that pattern again just in a different fabric. I ended up getting a linen viscose blend in ocean mist (not exactly sage but I got approval from the bride) from blackbird fabrics to wear to the wedding so I wanted make something that would suit the fabric. I also don’t wear a lot/ any sage green and I also don’t go to many weddings so I was feeling a bit out of my comfort zone for what to make. I wanted to make something that would be fun to wear and be a bit unexpected. I decided I wanted to make a jumpsuit.

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After looking at jumpsuit patterns I didn’t see any patterns that were exactly what I wanted. I really liked the fit in the legs of my burnside bibs and I had also recently made the By Hand London Anna Dress and was really happy with the fit in the bodice of that dress so I decided instead of starting from a whole new jumpsuit pattern I would mash up two patterns that I had recently made.

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Needless to say this was a lot more difficult than I thought it would be. I knew the biggest issue would be getting the waistline on the pants to match up with the waistline on the bodice. Because the burnside bibs are gathered up in the tie in the back there is definitely more fabric than you actually would want in a jumpsuit. When I went to line it up the waistline on the bodice back was actually longer than the waistline on the back of the bibs pants. I spent a long time trying to get all of the seams to match up. The bibs front also needed to be extended up since part of the bib actually meets the back. Since I was getting rid of the bib I had to add length to the front above the crotch to make sure that the front and back legs were the same length.

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At this point you might be thinking “… but this clearly is not sage green”. You are correct. This is just my wearable muslin of my jumpsuit made out of some Robert Kaufman Brussels washer linen I had sitting around for a while. As this was my first version there are definitely changes I want to make for my next version. The front crotch length is a bit too long, which also makes the hip point too low so there are drag lines there as well. Additionally I don’t really like the proportions of how high the pants come up. I would probably draft a waistband piece to go between the bodice and pants to visually create a line across my body at that point.

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Coming up probably next week will be the end result of what I actually ended up making to wear to the wedding!

By Hand London Anna Dress

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I already blogged by second version of my By Hand London Anna Dress so I figured it was about time to blog my first version! This version doesn’t get worn often but does get worn for special occasions. I’ll definitely end up wearing my second version more but I do really love this dress.

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The Anna Dress bodice is very distinctive and after looking at many versions I had an idea of how I wanted the bodice to fit on my body. I made 3 muslins for the bodice to tweak the fit and I ended up making a lot of adjustments to the bodice. I ended up taking a lot of height out of the bodice front – probably about 1 1/2 inches. I also followed the back neckline tutorial on the Ginger makes blog to fix the gaping at the back. I ended up taking 3/4 inch out of each side of the back. I’m also short (5′ 2″) so I had to shorten the skirt by 8 inches!!! I made some fitting adjustments before making my second version and I’m really happy with the fit on that version.

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I really took my time on sewing this dress. I used french seams on all the possible seams, and hand stitched many other areas (hem, slit opening, sleeve hems). I really love all of the beautiful finishing and I think that those touches really make the dress feel special. The directions do not have you interface the neckline facing and so I didn’t interface the facing on either this dress or my second dress but I wish I did go ahead and interface the neckline facing to help the facing lay flat and help the neckline keep its shape… Next time!

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The fabric is the Lottie Floral Rayon from the miramar collection by workroom social. I recently used a different fabric from this line for my Grainline Studio Hadley top. In both cases I absolutely loved working with the fabric both times. I really love the coral color on this one paired with bright blue and dark teal.

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While I don’t get to wear this dress often I did wear it to a Luau in Hawaii last summer and it was absolutely perfect.

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Midi By Hand London Anna Dress

This is actually the second By Hand London Anna Dress that I’ve made but I haven’t taken photos of my first one for a blog post yet. Hopefully I’ll get to that soon but for now here is my midi length version! For my first version I made several muslins and adjustments to the bodice because I wanted a more fitted look. I made a couple more adjustments for this version and if I make another version I may make even more tweaks but overall I’m really happy with how it came out!

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I used the April Rhodes Heritage Rayon for this dress and I absolutely loved working with it. I didn’t do any pattern matching on this (which would have been a huge pain with all of the skirt panels) and because the print is so busy you can’t really tell! I just barely squeezed this dress out of 2 yards of fabric!

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One thing I still need to perfect is the fit in the back neckline. I did take a pretty big amount out of the neckline but I could take a bit more out to get it to lay completely flat.

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I love the slit on one side! I don’t know that I’ll make another Anna in the near future but I’ve been thinking about making a skirt. I’ve also used the bodice for another project recently which will be on the blog at some point but maybe not for a couple of months!