Willow Tank And Ginger Jorts

This post is going to be a 2 for 1 but I’ve made both of these patterns before! I made the Grainline Studio Willow Tank and the Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans as shorts. I’ve made two versions of the willow tank before (a cropped version and a regular version) and I’ve made three pairs of Ginger Jeans before. Version one is the high waisted version. I actually used left over denim from that version to make these shorts so its a pretty interesting comparison to see how far I’ve come since my first Ginger Jeans! Version two and version three are both the low rise version.

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Don’t tell my other willow tanks but this version is by far my favorite. The fabric just hangs away from my body and is so light and airy. It feels amazing to wear and I’m sure this is going to get lots of wears! I used the Loominous fabric by Anna Maria Horner. The design is completely woven in to the fabric!

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Just look how cool that fabric is! I got this fabric from a local quilting shop and they didn’t quite have enough fabric but I made it work and was able to fit it all on the fabric I had.

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I’ve made the high rise Ginger Jeans and two pairs of low rise but I’ve been wanting something more in the middle so I decided I wanted to try the mid-rise version. Since I’ve been struggling a bit with the fit I wanted to make a short muslin of the mid-rise before I go for the full length jeans. These shorts are definitely my best fitting pair so far but I’m still struggling with the crotch. This fabric does stretch out throughout the day and is a bit thinner and with a higher sheen than the cone mills denim I used for my other pairs so it definitely shows the wrinkles more. Other than that they fit pretty well though… I’m thinking that I might try the Megan Nielsen Ash Jeans though to see if those have the same issues with the crotch. Have any of you tried the ash jeans? From pictures it seems like people aren’t having as many crotch issues but it also calls for fabric with more stretch…

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I adjusted the back yoke since my last pair and they are fitting much better in that area! I feel like I’m really close on getting this pattern to fit exactly how I want it to but I’m also a bit discouraged that after 4 versions I still haven’t figured out the crotch… I took apart a pair of ready to wear jeans that were threadbare and I’m hoping to compare those to my pattern for the Ginger Jeans that I’ve been adjusting and the Ash Jeans and then decide what my next step will be.

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Chambray Kalle Tunic

I’ve made two other versions of the Kalle Shirtdress by Closet Case Patterns but this is my first time making the tunic version. I really love both the dress version and the shirt version that I’ve made and I thought the tunic version would be perfect to throw on over leggings. Its super easy to wear and very comfortable.

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I honestly love making the Kalle. The instructions are great! The drafting is great! Its easy to fit! I’m especially proud of my pop-over placket on this one.

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I also love the dramatic high low hem. The tunic and shirtdress both have a bias tape hem finish which helps the hem lay flat. I really love the end result and have started adding this to other button up shirts.

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I also really love this fabric. It is a chambray shirting that I got a while back while I was in NYC for Camp Workroom Social. It presses really nicely and doesn’t get super wrinkly throughout the day.

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I also love the box pleat at the back. I feel like I’ll get the most wear out of this tunic in the fall when I can layer it with leggings and cardigans. I wore my dress version of the Kalle a lot last Summer and I may end up making another one just to have another one to wear!

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White Linen Kalle Shirt

This is the shirt version of the Kalle Shirt. This is my second version of this pattern but last time I made the dress version. I love my dress so I figured it was about time I tried one of the other versions. Since I don’t think I’d get a lot of wear out of the cropped version so I ended up adding some length.

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It is still cropped and you can still see some skin when I’m wearing this top with my low rise ginger jeans. I think this top would also pair well with some mid or high rise ginger jeans for fall. I’m hoping to make another pair of jeans this summer that are a little higher waisted. I’m also planning on pairing it with high waisted skirts or shorts this summer.

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I used the Robert Kaufman Linen Rayon blend. I really liked working with and wearing this fabric. Also – I love this wide hem facing!

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I left the back hem longer so from the back this looks like a normal length shirt. I also really love the box pleat at the back. Overall I love this shirt but I don’t think I need more than one of these. I may need some more of the dress version though!

Summer of Basics – Ginger Jeans v3

My first pair of Closet Case Files Ginger Jeans was my high waisted pair followed by my low rise cone mills denim pair. For this pair I used cone mills denim again but this time I used a slightly lighter weight denim. I also decided to use the traditional gold topstitching thread this time around.

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From my last pair I made a large calf adjustment and I added a bit more of a curve to the yoke and waistband to account for my sway back. I also shortened the crotch curve slightly.

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This time around I finally figured out how to make bar tacks that don’t just end up with a huge thread nest underneath or completely jamming up my machine!!! The trick for me was to loosen the bobbin tension significantly. From there I used a .5 length and a 1.5 width. Honestly – this is a jeans making game-changer for me. I would always get so frustrated with bar tacks in the past because they would always jam up my machine and I’d have to seam rip them. removing the dense stitching was making the fabric weaker instead of reinforcing the spot.

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Although I’m pretty happy with this pair there is still a good amount of extra fabric around my outer knee that I’d like to try and get rid for my next pair. After I made this pair I thought I might need a knock knee adjustment. I don’t think I have knock knees but I may have full inner thighs, which also would mean that I need the legs to angle slightly more towards the center. There is a tutorial on the Closet Case Files Blog or I considered using this tutorial, which would shift the lower leg towards the inseam. However, this would also lengthen the inseam and I have extra fabric around the inseam too. I ended up drawing a line in chalk where the knee should be on my jeans and it is actually a half inch to low. I think the issue is that my legs are just shorter, so I’m going to try just shortening my leg above the knee for my next pair and hopefully that does the trick! I also wanted a slightly closer fit around the ankle so I took off 1/4 inch from each side of the seams and tapered up to nothing at the knee.

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I’m super happy with how these turned out – I think I’m really starting to get close to getting them how I want them to fit.

 

Tania Culottes and Nettie Bodysuit

I made the Tania culottes by Megan Nielsen. This is my first Megan Nielsen make. I was looking for something that would be good to take while traveling but still be cute. I like the idea of culottes because I often sit crosslegged even in chairs. I read some other blogs where other people ended up using version A but then cut the length of a size or two up from their actual size and those lengths looked good to me. I didn’t want a super short skirt because I want to be somewhat modest while traveling.

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The only other modification that I wish that I had made would be to add pockets. I had already cut everything out when I realized that there were no pockets. Megan Nielsen does have a tutorial for adding pockets to the mini Tania culottes and it would be the same for the adult version. I could have still added pockets after I had cut it out but I wasn’t really sure about the side seam zipper with the pockets and I just wanted to get sewing so I skipped it.

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I bought this fabric a while back from the imaginegnats shop. I love florals but don’t like anything too loud so this fabric was perfect. I bought two yards without having a real plan. This pattern actually calls for two and a half yards of fabric but I cut on a single layer (huge space saver!) and I also cut some of the pieces upside down since these flowers don’t have a direction.

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This actually was my first time working with Rayon fabric. Since it shifts and grows quite a bit I was a little concerned but I just cut it single layer with a rotary cutter and didn’t have much of an issue. I stay stitched the waist seam allowance to try to prevent the fabric from getting out of shape there. Other than that everything came together relatively smoothly. Some of the pieces still grew a bit but not enough to make a difference.

I’m also wearing these with my second Close Case Files Nettie bodysuit! This version is a 3/4 length sleeve with the mid- back and scoop front. I made this out of an art gallery knit from also from imaginegnats.

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I love the mid-back since it feels a bit risque and interesting but not at all inappropriate. I again added the snap crotch but this time I used some silk that I’ve been holding on to in the hopes of making it in to a True Bias Sutton Blouse. I added the built in bra for this version but instead of attaching the front of the bra to the back I added a back bra piece which I connected to the front. This ended up coming down to the bottom of my rib cage so I cut the elastic off and tried again. The second time worked really well.

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I also shortened this a bit more than my first version and ended up shortening the bottom pieces before adding the snap crotch for a better fit. Ultimately though I just need to figure out the sway back adjustment. I also think there is probably something I can still do in the shoulders since they feel a bit like they are floating away from the skin when you really want them to be skin-tight. For my next version I think I’ll try taking out some volume at the shoulders.

Kalle Shirtdress

 

IMG_5281.jpgI made the newest pattern by Closet Case Files – the Kalle Shirtdress. The fabric is an amazing viscose poplin that I got from Blackbird fabrics (sadly sold out). I graded out this pattern from a size 2 at the bust to a size 10 at the hips but other than that I did not make any pattern adjustments. I typically also shorten by 2 inches at least but for this I decided not to because the side comes up quite a bit and I wanted to make sure my legs were covered enough. Next time I’ll definitely shorten though, but I may decide to bring the side curve down a bit. You can see a good amount of thigh here – I’m not sure I’m brave enough to show two more inches.

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I tried hard to pattern match on this one and while it isn’t perfect by any means, I am really happy with the outcome. Because this fabric is relatively shifty  it was difficult to keep things lined up when cutting it out. Check it out!!!

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I tried to match across the button band as well as the pocket. You can tell that the pocket is not quite in the right place because I really was so excited about my pattern matching. I guess I could have recut the pocket so it was in the right place and also pattern matched but that didn’t really seem like fun.

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I didn’t bother matching the front/back sides or the yoke/ back since there was no way I’d get those to line up. While I was making this  but before I put the collar on I was worried that it would look like a mumu. Since there was nothing breaking up the pattern and due to the general shape of the garment the print ended up being a little overwhelming. Adding the collar and buttons definitely helped give this dress more interest and structure so I don’t think it looks like a mumu anymore! However – it did make me think that maybe sometimes pattern matching isn’t such a great idea…

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I took these pictures while camping at Harrington Beach State Park, which is on Lake Michigan in Wisconsin. It was so beautiful there but super hot this past weekend. This dress really was great to wear because the fabric hangs pretty far away from your body so it really keeps you cool.

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Low Rise Ginger Jeans and Speckled Lark

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This is the low rise version of the Ginger Jeans pattern by Closet Case Files. I made my first pair of Ginger jeans about a year ago now. That time I made the high waisted version so I wanted to make the low rise ones this time. All of the other jeans I own are low or mid rise so I think these will be more my style. I’m also using a much darker denim this time around which matches more with what I typically wear. I think these are really going to be a staple in my wardrobe!

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The fabric is cone mills dark indigo stretch denim that I ordered online from Fancy Tiger crafts a while ago. The fabric is a lot thicker than my last pair of jeans and this pair also has a lot better recovery than my last pair! I used this gray topstitching thread because I wanted a little more of a subtle look than traditional jeans topstitching. I think my next pair is going to be a slightly lighter indigo with traditional gold topstitching thread though.

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I grade the pattern from a size 8 at the waist to a size 10 at the waist. I also shortened the legs by 1.5 inches. I went ahead and made a slight sway back adjustment to both the back yoke piece and the waistband piece. I am making view A for the low rise but I still want the skinny legs so I took 1/2 inch off of each side of the ankle, grading up to the knee.

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These jeans fit pretty well but there are some more adjustments that I’ve made to my pattern for the next time:

  • Increased the amount of curve in the waistband and yoke to account for slight gaping.
  • Shortened the legs by 1 inch.
  • Shortened the crotch curve by 1/4 inch.

There is also some bagging at the knee that I haven’t decided how to remedy for my next pair.

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As an added bonus I’m also wearing a Lark Tee by Grainline Studio. This may be my most worn t-shirt in my wardrobe. I just realized I finished this almost an entire year ago! I used a speckled jersey from Fancy Tiger. This time I made the scoop neck version with cap sleeves. Otherwise I used all of the same pattern modifications as my past versions. I think in the future I might try going up a size or doing some sort of wide shoulder adjustment since there isn’t quite enough room in the shoulders.

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