Grainline Cascade Duffle Coat

I made this Grainline Cascade Duffle coat using some wool fabric that I bought last year (2016) at Mood while in NYC after camp workroom social. I wanted a bit of a warmer lining so I got some Kasha Satin lining from Vogue Fabric Store per Closet Case Pattern’s suggestion. I used a medium weight tricot interfacing also from Vogue Fabric Store.

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I cut a size 4 at the bust, grading out to a size 8 at the hips. I also shortened the coat by 2 inches. Most pieces I only shortened by 1 inch each to distribute the shortening between the top and bottom pieces. I also shortened the arms by 1 inch. I sometimes shorten arms by 1 inch and sometimes by 2 inches but for this coat I decided on one inch because I figured I rather have coat sleeves a little too long than a little too short.

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Tracing all of the pattern pieces and cutting out the fabric was such a time consuming and daunting task but once those were done the coat came together more quickly than I expected.

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The parts that I struggled with the most were attaching the toggles and setting the sleeves. I made my own toggles which was pretty fun and not actually very hard once you have all of the supplies. To attach them I originally tired to use scotch tape the toggles in place but the two toggles that I wasn’t in the process of sewing on just fell off while I was sewing my first toggle. I also found it pretty hard to see what I was doing with the tape in the way. I had done a practice toggle but I didn’t realize how much more difficult sewing the toggles on to the jacket would be with the bulky jacket front to maneuver. I ended up using a fabric glue stick on my remaining 5 toggles and it went much better.

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The sleeve caps were very difficult to gather with the bulky wool across seams. It took a long time to gather them enough that they fit. I’m guessing longer stitch length would have made that easier but I used the longest setting on the machine I was using.

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The zipper installation was pretty similar to the Closet Case Files Kelly Anorak jacket I made a while ago so that part went together relatively easily. The fronts were about 1/4 inch off the first time I zipped it up so I had to re-do one side but that was a pretty quick fix.

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This was my first time bagging a lining and it definitely felt like magic! It really didn’t feel like it would be possible to turn everything right side out but I had totally missed the step of leaving a hole in one of the sleeves so that also added to the mystery of how it would all work.

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I’m super happy with how it came out! It looks like a normal wool coat that I would have bought at a store but this one isn’t too tight at the hips and the arms aren’t too long and it is the exact color I wanted it to be.

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Penny Raglan

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I made the Grainline Studio Penny Raglan out of leftover fabric from my lark tee. I love this bamboo knit and the Penny Raglan is the ultimate comfy tee shirt.

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I made a size 2 at the bust and graded out to a size 8 at the hips (totally unnecessary) and I also shortened it by 1″. If I make this again I think I’d make a straight size 0.

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This is one of the items I brought with me a year ago (yes I’m super behind on blogging) when I took a month long trip to Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia. It was so perfect in the hot weather especially for visiting temples in Angkor Wat where you need to have your shoulders covered. I wore this with my True Bias Hudson Pants for the ultimate temple exploring outfit.

Pink Cloud Hemlock with Side Vents

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I got this amazing cloud sweater knit from Blackbird fabrics with the intension of making a Hemlock. I wasn’t really sure when I got the fabric that it was going to be a good fit. I was worried that the color is too close to my skin tone and that the boxiness of the Hemlock would add to the unflattering nature. I then saw a someone in real life wearing a sweater in a very similar color with extreme side vents and I new that was the added touch that would keep the Hemlock interesting.

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I used the same pattern as my split hem version but I only sewed the side seams a couple of inches. When I sewed the hem I pivoted and sewed up one leg of the vent, pivoted and sewed a couple of stitches across the seam to the back, sewed down the back leg of the vent and then pivoted and sewed the back hem. It came together pretty quickly.

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I’ll likely wear it with tank tops underneath. I’m thinking that I’d wear striped tank tops for more interest or lacy tank tops like I have on here. I also could just wear it with high waisted jeans but I have yet to actually do that.

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Red Flannel Archer

I wear my first flannel Archer all the time so I decided it was finally time for another one. I used the Archer Button Up Pattern by Grainline Studio. I’ve also made a flannel popover version and a chambray version but flannel button up version gets the most wear.

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The fabric is a Robert Kaufman Harringbone flannel. It is a bit thicker than the other flannels I’ve used which will be perfect for Wisconsin Winter. I used the same modifications from my first version. The bust is a size 0 graded out to a size 6 at the hips. The arms are shortened by 1/2 inch.

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This happens to be the second annual flannel archer photo shoot while apple picking. Hopefully this will be a yearly tradition since I can definitely see myself wanting a new flannel button up every year.

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Tencel Chambray Alder Shirtdress

This is my third time making the Alder Shirtdress pattern by Grainline Studio. The first time was out of red cotton and the second time was a shirt version.

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I got the fabric for this from Blackbird Fabrics. Its my first time using tencel and it was a bit more tricky than the cotton fabrics that I’ve used for this pattern before. This fabric is so soft and drapey – I really love it but it wrinkles quite a bit.

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For a while I considered going up a size at the bust for this because with both my other versions the button at the bust can come undone if I’m wearing a cross body purse (which is the only kind of purse I wear). However, I did not end up going up a size on this and I haven’t had any issues so far. I’m thinking that might be either because my button holes are somehow better or because the fabric is a bit softer and gives a bit more easily. Either way I’m pretty happy that I did not go down a size.

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I used the same pattern adjustments and construction as I did on my first Alder Shirtdress so there is really nothing new to report there.

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I originally took blog photos for this dress at the Wisconsin State Capital (but ended up retaking them for obvious reasons). It happened to be a super windy day the first time I tried to photograph this make which helped show off the volume of the skirt!

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Split Hem Hemlock Sweater Tee

I’ve made so many Grainline Studio patterns that at this point it seemed like a little ridiculous that I hadn’t tried the Hemlock Tee considering that it is a free pattern!

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I did, however make a few changes to the pattern. I started by shortening the font and back pieces by 2 inches which is what I typically do for all of my tops (I’m 5′ 1 1/2″). I then followed the Grainline Studio tutorial on the split hem variation. I shortened the front an additional inch and I used an inch and a half hem line. I also lengthened the sleeves and tapered them in at the wrists.

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I used a sweater knit which I got from the imagine gnats shop. I love the fabric but the strings do get caught in my cats claws and I have to pull the threads in again with a crochet hook.

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I actually finished this project a while back and I’ve gotten a bunch of wear out of it. I’m wearing it here just with rtw jean shorts but I typically wear this with leggings in slightly cooler weather. I’m excited for fall so I can start wearing this more often again!

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These photos were taken on a camping trip in Door County, WI. I love camping there and this year we had great weather. I particularly loved all of the tiny bright colored things.

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Cropped Willow Dot Tank

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This is my second version of the Grainline Studio Willow tank. My first version was made from a voile and was a non-cropped length, and I really like both versions. For this version I used dotted chambray from Robert Kaufman. I love this fabric and I think I’ll get a lot of wear out of this tank.

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For this version I raised my bust darts a bit but I think they could be raised just a bit more. I also followed the Grainline tutorial on making a cropped version of the willow tank. I love the cropped length! I think it is so cute.

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In addition to raising the bust darts a bit more on my next version I also might try a slight sway back adjustment. It really doesn’t bother me at all but the back is not laying quite right. I don’t think it will make too much of a difference because  the tank is already cropped but I do think it will help.

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I’m also wearing my high waisted Ginger Jeans. I really like this combination but I honestly don’t know if I have a lot of other bottoms that would work well with this tank. Most of my other jeans are low rise. I could definitely wear this with a high waisted skirt, but a lot of my high waisted skirts not the right shape. Since the tank is pretty boxy I would want the skirt to add some shape.