I love wearing nightgowns to sleep in. They are just the most comfortable PJs. However, I wanted something that stayed around my legs instead of something that ended up getting twisted up while I slept. I wanted a nightgown with pants on the bottom.
My major inspiration for this romper was the Sunday Romper from Smash and Tess. Since I’m such a pair shape I’m guessing that if I bought a ready to wear romper like this it would be too tight in the hips causing the fabric to bunch up around waist.
I used the Grainline Studio Lark tee pattern and the Hudson Pants to hack together this romper. To get in and out of this romper you have to go through the neck hole so I knew I was going to have to make the neckline bigger. I still haven’t mastered my coverstitch machine – the hems on the sleeves and pants are a little wonky but since this was just a muslin of PJs I’m not too worried.
Lark tee modifications:
Sized up 1 size from my bust measurement which put me at a size 6
Deepened the v-neck – To do this I started by tracing the largest size neck line but this didn’t seem deep enough so I slid the pattern down an additional inch and traced 1 inch deeper than the largest size.
Added center front and center back seams to the lark tee. This means the pattern pieces will not be cut on the fold but would instead need seam allowance added on. I traced the pattern pieces and added 1/4″ seam allowance to the center front seam.
Flared out the sleeves slightly – I slashed and spread the sleeves to give a slight flutter to the sleeve but its a little too subtle so I’d do a bit more for my next version.
Straightened out the side seams a bit for less shaping at the waist
Hudson Pants modifications:
I cut the Hudson Pants based on my hip measurements which put me at a size 10
The Hudson Pants have a slashed pocket. I changed the pocket so that it is in the side seam instead. When I traced the pants front piece I taped the pocket piece behind so I could trace them as one.
I then had to modify the pocket slightly to make up for the fact that it wasn’t being sewn in to the waistband. I just extended the curve of the pocket to where the side seam would hit.
I wanted the capri length pant but I didn’t want to use the cuff so I extended the leg length by the length of the cuff and made sure the leg tapered in to approximately the width of the cuff.
I also dropped the crotch curve by an inch to make for a slightly more slouchy look
Combining the Patterns:
To combine the top and the bottom I laid the Lark front on top of the hudson front, overlapping the patterns a couple of inches since I figured my t-shirt would overlap with my pants a couple of inches. I made sure that I was overlapping the same amount for the front and the back. I lined up the center fronts and taped them together. I then smoothed out the curve from the top to meet the hips of the Hudsons.
And that is all for pattern modifications! On to sewing!!
The Hudson pants have a 3/8″ seam allowance but the lark tee has a 1/4″ seam allowance. I decided not to do anything to the pattern pieces to account for this but just to sew at the 1/4″ seam allowance since a little extra room in the pants is not going to hurt.
Here are the general order that I followed, which is not very detailed. Let me know if you have any questions!
Sew shoulder front seams to shoulder back seams
Sew sleeves in flat
Sew pockets to front and back pieces, matching at notch
Sew side seams, going around the pockets
Sew leg inseams
Sew back together, stopping at the crotch seam
Sew neck binding around neck while it is still open
I made this Grainline Cascade Duffle coat using some wool fabric that I bought last year (2016) at Mood while in NYC after camp workroom social. I wanted a bit of a warmer lining so I got some Kasha Satin lining from Vogue Fabric Store per Closet Case Pattern’s suggestion. I used a medium weight tricot interfacing also from Vogue Fabric Store.
I cut a size 4 at the bust, grading out to a size 8 at the hips. I also shortened the coat by 2 inches. Most pieces I only shortened by 1 inch each to distribute the shortening between the top and bottom pieces. I also shortened the arms by 1 inch. I sometimes shorten arms by 1 inch and sometimes by 2 inches but for this coat I decided on one inch because I figured I rather have coat sleeves a little too long than a little too short.
Tracing all of the pattern pieces and cutting out the fabric was such a time consuming and daunting task but once those were done the coat came together more quickly than I expected.
The parts that I struggled with the most were attaching the toggles and setting the sleeves. I made my own toggles which was pretty fun and not actually very hard once you have all of the supplies. To attach them I originally tired to use scotch tape the toggles in place but the two toggles that I wasn’t in the process of sewing on just fell off while I was sewing my first toggle. I also found it pretty hard to see what I was doing with the tape in the way. I had done a practice toggle but I didn’t realize how much more difficult sewing the toggles on to the jacket would be with the bulky jacket front to maneuver. I ended up using a fabric glue stick on my remaining 5 toggles and it went much better.
The sleeve caps were very difficult to gather with the bulky wool across seams. It took a long time to gather them enough that they fit. I’m guessing longer stitch length would have made that easier but I used the longest setting on the machine I was using.
The zipper installation was pretty similar to the Closet Case Files Kelly Anorak jacket I made a while ago so that part went together relatively easily. The fronts were about 1/4 inch off the first time I zipped it up so I had to re-do one side but that was a pretty quick fix.
This was my first time bagging a lining and it definitely felt like magic! It really didn’t feel like it would be possible to turn everything right side out but I had totally missed the step of leaving a hole in one of the sleeves so that also added to the mystery of how it would all work.
I’m super happy with how it came out! It looks like a normal wool coat that I would have bought at a store but this one isn’t too tight at the hips and the arms aren’t too long and it is the exact color I wanted it to be.
I made a size 2 at the bust and graded out to a size 8 at the hips (totally unnecessary) and I also shortened it by 1″. If I make this again I think I’d make a straight size 0.
This is one of the items I brought with me a year ago (yes I’m super behind on blogging) when I took a month long trip to Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia. It was so perfect in the hot weather especially for visiting temples in Angkor Wat where you need to have your shoulders covered. I wore this with my True Bias Hudson Pants for the ultimate temple exploring outfit.
I got this amazing cloud sweater knit from Blackbird fabrics with the intension of making a Hemlock. I wasn’t really sure when I got the fabric that it was going to be a good fit. I was worried that the color is too close to my skin tone and that the boxiness of the Hemlock would add to the unflattering nature. I then saw a someone in real life wearing a sweater in a very similar color with extreme side vents and I new that was the added touch that would keep the Hemlock interesting.
I used the same pattern as my split hem version but I only sewed the side seams a couple of inches. When I sewed the hem I pivoted and sewed up one leg of the vent, pivoted and sewed a couple of stitches across the seam to the back, sewed down the back leg of the vent and then pivoted and sewed the back hem. It came together pretty quickly.
I’ll likely wear it with tank tops underneath. I’m thinking that I’d wear striped tank tops for more interest or lacy tank tops like I have on here. I also could just wear it with high waisted jeans but I have yet to actually do that.
The fabric is a Robert Kaufman Harringbone flannel. It is a bit thicker than the other flannels I’ve used which will be perfect for Wisconsin Winter. I used the same modifications from my first version. The bust is a size 0 graded out to a size 6 at the hips. The arms are shortened by 1/2 inch.
This happens to be the second annual flannel archer photo shoot while apple picking. Hopefully this will be a yearly tradition since I can definitely see myself wanting a new flannel button up every year.