I’ve been wanting to make another pair of jeans for a while but since I’ve been struggling so much with fit on my jeans I’ve been putting it off. Previously I’ve made three pairs of Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans (a high waisted pair, a low rise pair with grey topstitching, and a low rise pair with gold topstitching) and one pair of Ginger Jean Shorts. My fit has definitely improved with each version but there are still issues. I decided to switch it up and this time make the Ash Jeans by Megan Nielsen in the Robert Kaufman Super Stretch Denim. I figured that the super stretchy fabric that the ash jeans calls for would be more forgiving than the thicker cone mills denim that I used for my second and third pairs for Ginger Jeans.
Based on my measurements I cut out a size 28 at the waist and graded out to a size 29 at the hips. Instead of just removing length from the bottom of the pants I added two lengthen and shorten lines, one above and one below the knee. I shortened by 1” in each spot for a total of 2 inches shorter. As I was cutting out I also cut 2 Inches off the bottom of the legs because I messed up the cutting layout and had to do that to get all the pieces to fit. When I did the baste fit I had a little extra room at the waist. I took the side seams in 3/8” at the waist tapered to nothing at the hips. 3/8″ doesn’t seem like a lot but since it takes off from the front and back piece on the left and right side it ended up removing a total of 1 1/2” all the way around. Before hemming them I removed an additional 1” of length from the bottom for a total of shortening the pants by 5 inches. Next time I’ll distribute that to the lengthen and shorten lines that I added which will make the pants a little closer fitting at the ankle.
This time I used the Guterman Mara Topstitching Thread which is a lighter weight than the topstitching thread from JoAnn’s that I’ve used in the past. It is definitely more subtle than the heavier topstitching thread. I’m not sure if it was the topstitching thread or that this denim that was less bulky than my previous denims or the fact that this is now my 5th time making jeans but while I was making these I kept thinking that making jeans was SO MUCH EASIER that I remembered. I would definitely recommend the Robert Kaufman Super Stretch Denim with the Guterman Mara Thread for anyone making their first pair of jeans!
Overall my first pair of Ash Jeans fits way better than my first pair of Ginger Jeans. I’m not sure at this point if I’ll try making the mid-rise Gingers next or make another pair of Ash Jeans next. For either pair I think I need to remove just a little room from the center crotch seam. I may also look in to weather there is anything I can do to reduce the drag lines on the back thigh though I know there is no way to get rid of them completely.
Also – I got this shirt at a thrift store when I was in college and I think it would be super easy to hack a boxy top pattern to have gathers at the shoulders like this one