Anna Dress/ Burnside Bibs Mash Up

Last week I posted about the dress I made that I was originally planning to wear to a wedding. When I found out that I needed to wear sage green to the wedding it was clear that I needed a plan B. Since I was already almost done making the Eve Dress I didn’t want to make that pattern again just in a different fabric. I ended up getting a linen viscose blend in ocean mist (not exactly sage but I got approval from the bride) from blackbird fabrics to wear to the wedding so I wanted make something that would suit the fabric. I also don’t wear a lot/ any sage green and I also don’t go to many weddings so I was feeling a bit out of my comfort zone for what to make. I wanted to make something that would be fun to wear and be a bit unexpected. I decided I wanted to make a jumpsuit.

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After looking at jumpsuit patterns I didn’t see any patterns that were exactly what I wanted. I really liked the fit in the legs of my burnside bibs and I had also recently made the By Hand London Anna Dress and was really happy with the fit in the bodice of that dress so I decided instead of starting from a whole new jumpsuit pattern I would mash up two patterns that I had recently made.

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Needless to say this was a lot more difficult than I thought it would be. I knew the biggest issue would be getting the waistline on the pants to match up with the waistline on the bodice. Because the burnside bibs are gathered up in the tie in the back there is definitely more fabric than you actually would want in a jumpsuit. When I went to line it up the waistline on the bodice back was actually longer than the waistline on the back of the bibs pants. I spent a long time trying to get all of the seams to match up. The bibs front also needed to be extended up since part of the bib actually meets the back. Since I was getting rid of the bib I had to add length to the front above the crotch to make sure that the front and back legs were the same length.

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At this point you might be thinking “… but this clearly is not sage green”. You are correct. This is just my wearable muslin of my jumpsuit made out of some Robert Kaufman Brussels washer linen I had sitting around for a while. As this was my first version there are definitely changes I want to make for my next version. The front crotch length is a bit too long, which also makes the hip point too low so there are drag lines there as well. Additionally I don’t really like the proportions of how high the pants come up. I would probably draft a waistband piece to go between the bodice and pants to visually create a line across my body at that point.

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Coming up probably next week will be the end result of what I actually ended up making to wear to the wedding!

Pink Burnside Bibs

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These are the Burnside Bibs by Sew House Seven made out of the Brussels Washer Linen in Petal from Imagine Gnats. At first I wasn’t sure if these were really my style but I kept seeing versions that other people made and they always looked so good so I finally decided to go for it!

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This was my first time making a pattern by Sew House Seven and the instructions for these were just so good and sewing them was a thoroughly pleasant experience. I really enjoyed sewing these… except that I made some pretty big mistakes. At one point I was ready to throw these in the trash!

The first mistake I made was to size down too much in the legs. The back of the bibs have extra room and the ties pull in this extra fabric. I wanted to minimize the amount of bunching that happens above the butt so I decided to size down. I mistakenly thought that because the pattern didn’t include finished garment measurements for the hips but did for many other measurements that I would be safe to size down. It was not safe to size down.

The second mistake I made was with fabric choice. While I was committed to making light pink burnside bibs my fabric was a little on the sheer side. I was a little nervous about this at first but I found some examples of other people who made them out of the same fabric and I figured it would be fine. It was not fine.

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This is a picture of the baste fit for my burnside bibs. They are definitely too tight in the hips but the part that I couldn’t get over was how sheer they were. While you couldn’t really see through them you could really see the seam allowance of the fabric underneath and it just really hated how they looked. I did some research and decided to underline them with cotton batiste. I didn’t want to use a rayon because I didn’t want the underlining to bag inside of the pants. There were a ton of options that contained polyester but I finally found a just cotton one! I then had to entirely take apart the bibs and start over. Technically I left the pockets on but otherwise it was a complete restart. I ended up sewing the legs at a slightly smaller seam allowance which gave me just enough room. Thank goodness they were so fun to sew!

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Most projects I work on go relatively smoothly… I feel like this was the first time that I really had to go back and make some major changes to a project. Although it was really frustrating at the time I feel like I learned a lot more making these than I have with many of my other projects recently. I’m not sure how many pairs of overalls I need but I have seen some really cute shorts versions! I’m glad I didn’t end up throwing them in the trash because I really love them now!

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