Another Ogden with Fabric from my Zadie

I’ve made several Ogden Camis in the past. Basically any time I have enough fabric left over from my last project I make an ogden. I actually haven’t been wearing my ogdens that much this summer and at this point I have a ton of them so I may need to find another pattern soon that will use such a small amount of fabric. I do love layering my ogdens so I actually think I get more wear out of them in cooler months.

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This one is made out of scraps left over from my Zadie Jumpsuit (both of which are made out of the mora slub linen viscose blend from Stonemountain and Daughter). I had just barely enough fabric to cut this out and ended up cutting one of the lining pieces on the cross grain, which seems to have worked out ok in this fabric!

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Even though I’ve made several ogden cami’s in the past this time I cut a size 0 which is a size down from the ones I’ve made in the past. I’ve changed shape a little since my first ogden cami so I definitely needed to size down. Maybe I’ll end up wearing this version more because the fit is much better than my previous ogdens.

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Speaking of my previous ogden cami’s, heres all the ogdens I’ve made:

  1. Black and White ogden
  2. Liberty ogden, Chambray ogden and Red Floral ogden all in one post
  3. Tropical ogden dress hack

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Rib Knit Nikko Top

This is my second time making the Nikko Top by True Bias. The first version I made I used a striped bamboo knit. This time I used a rib knit. I love the color – I don’t have anything else like it in my wardrobe. This is going to get a lot of wear this summer.

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This top came together really quickly! Its always faster to make a pattern the second time around and since this pattern doesn’t have any zippers, buttons/button holes, etc. it really doesn’t take a lot of time to come together. I just finished the hem with a zigzag stitch instead of breaking out my coverstitch machine because I figured I’d mostly be wearing this tucked in anyway and it doesn’t really matter what the hem looks like.

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I love the sleeveless version but next time I’m thinking about making either a long sleeve version or a dress version or maybe the long sleeve dress version?? Either way I probably won’t tackle that for a while because I have a lot of sewing planned before I would get to that so I have a long time to decide!

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I don’t have a ton to add because it is fairly simple to make and I’ve made it before. I definitely recommend this pattern if you haven’t tried it yet! I was skeptical about the mock turtleneck since I hate having anything that close to my neck but it doesn’t bother me too much and definitely adds a little flare that a basic tank top wouldn’t!

Red Lander Shorts

I’ve been wearing my Lander shorts almost every single day so I figured I needed another pair. I’ve been trying to use up fabric from my stash so when I came across this leftover fabric from my tulip skirt I decided to use it. Red wouldn’t necessarily be my first choice for shorts but since I was trying out some different things this time around I figured if it didn’t work out it wouldn’t be a big loss if it didn’t work out.

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I decided I wanted to try the fly front version. At first I thought I’d just get the expansion pack from True Bias but I made so many changes to my pattern already for fit I thought it actually may save me time to just try to hack it myself. I basically just traced the fronts with the fly piece overlapping the fronts, lining up the seam line.

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I followed the True Bias blog tutorial to change the pockets to be internal. I also added just a small amount additional amount of curve to the back of the waistband. Other than that those were the only changes.

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I followed the closet case patterns tutorial for the ginger jeans for installing the fly. I just ignored the steps for topstitching the second row.

Lander Shorts and Nikko Top

I made the True Bias Lander Shorts and Nikko Top to take on my trip to Maui. The Lander Shorts were on my 2018 make 9 but the Nikko Top was a bit more of an impulse make since I wanted something that would look good with my shorts and Kelli just always looks so cute when she wears hers together. The Nikko Top was a super last minute make for the trip and it isn’t even hemmed in any of these pictures.

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I honestly was very unsure that the lander pants/ shorts could work for me because of the wide leg and because I am such a pear shape. When I talked to Kelli she suggested starting with the shorts version! I have to say I think these are my favorite shorts that I’ve ever owned. They are roomy and comfortable while being stylish. I absolutely love them!

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Having said that I did make a ton of pattern modifications. I started with the tissue fitting method that I learned at Camp Workroom Social. I love that you can get a pretty good fit without having to muslin and in the process you transfer all of your adjustments to the pattern. I also got the updated Palmer Pletch book on fitting and I’m excited to try this method on non-pants. I did shorten the rise significantly since I’m pretty short in the torso. I also shortened the pockets as well. Because this method has you cut a straight size from your hip measurement I did have to widen the darts just a bit. I added some curve to the waistband which meant that I had to cut two pieces instead of one piece that you fold over.

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The Nikko Top was much simpler – I just graded out from a size 2 at the bust to a size 8 at the hips and shortened by 1 inch. I’m super happy with how it turned out though I’m definitely not sold on the turtle neck thing. I’ve never liked wearing turtle necks and having that much fabric around my neck. It will probably take some getting used to but this is the softest bamboo knit so I’m hoping it will be an easy adjustment.

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I wore this outfit hiking around some waterfalls on Maui and it was a success! Unfortunately I spilled at least 3 things on my shorts that day and couldn’t wear them the rest of the trip! I know I will get a ton of use out of these this summer and they’ll be one of the first things I throw on after they get out of the wash.

Tropical Ogden Cami Dress

I made this dress using the Ogden Cami from True Bias. I followed this tutorial on her blog to make the dress version. The fabric is from Indie Sew but unfortunately it looks like it is out of stock/ discontinued. I actually really liked working with this fabric. Because it is a rayon crepe it is super drape-y but not quite a slippery as other rayons. It is pretty thin while still being opaque enough to make an unlined dress.

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In these pictures I’m wearing the dress with a belt to create a little more waist definition but I can definitely see myself wearing the dress both with and without a belt this summer. This dress is one of the most comfortable things I’ve ever worn!

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Per usual I love the back of the ogden cami and in this super soft drape-y fabric I love it even more! If you want to see my previous ogden cami makes you can check out my Black and White Ogden Cami as well as my post on three other Ogden Camis I made using scraps leftover from other projects.

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Photos by my friend Cora!

Franken PJs

I love wearing nightgowns to sleep in. They are just the most comfortable PJs. However, I wanted something that stayed around my legs instead of something that ended up getting twisted up while I slept. I wanted a nightgown with pants on the bottom.

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My major inspiration for this romper was the Sunday Romper from Smash and Tess. Since I’m such a pair shape I’m guessing that  if I bought a ready to wear romper like this it would be too tight in the hips causing the fabric to bunch up around waist.

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I used the Grainline Studio Lark tee pattern and the Hudson Pants to hack together this romper. To get in and out of this romper you have to go through the neck hole so I knew I was going to have to make the neckline bigger. I still haven’t mastered my coverstitch machine – the hems on the sleeves and pants are a little wonky but since this was just a muslin of PJs I’m not too worried.

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Pattern modifications:

Lark tee modifications:

  • Sized up 1 size from my bust measurement which put me at a size 6
  • Deepened the v-neck – To do this I started by tracing the largest size neck line but this didn’t seem deep enough so I slid the pattern down an additional inch and traced 1 inch deeper than the largest size.
  • Added center front and center back seams to the lark tee. This means the pattern pieces will not be cut on the fold but would instead need seam allowance added on. I traced the pattern pieces and added 1/4″ seam allowance to the center front seam.
  • Flared out the sleeves slightly – I slashed and spread the sleeves to give a slight flutter to the sleeve but its a little too subtle so I’d do a bit more for my next version.
  • Straightened out the side seams a bit for less shaping at the waist

Hudson Pants modifications:

  • I cut the Hudson Pants based on my hip measurements which put me at a size 10
  • The Hudson Pants have a slashed pocket. I changed the pocket so that it is in the side seam instead. When I traced the pants front piece I taped the pocket piece behind so I could trace them as one.
  • I then had to modify the pocket slightly to make up for the fact that it wasn’t being sewn in to the waistband. I just extended the curve of the pocket to where the side seam would hit.
  • I wanted the capri length pant but I didn’t want to use the cuff so I extended the leg length by the length of the cuff and made sure the leg tapered in to approximately the width of the cuff.
  • I also dropped the crotch curve by an inch to make for a slightly more slouchy look

Combining the Patterns:

To combine the top and the bottom I laid the Lark front on top of the hudson front, overlapping the patterns a couple of inches since I figured my t-shirt would overlap with my pants a couple of inches. I made sure that I was overlapping the same amount for the front and the back. I lined up the center fronts and taped them together. I then smoothed out the curve from the top to meet the hips of the Hudsons.

And that is all for pattern modifications! On to sewing!!

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Sewing:

The Hudson pants have a 3/8″ seam allowance but the lark tee has a 1/4″ seam allowance. I decided not to do anything to the pattern pieces to account for this but just to sew at the 1/4″ seam allowance since a little extra room in the pants is not going to hurt.

Here are the general order that I followed, which is not very detailed. Let me know if you have any questions!

  1. Sew shoulder front seams to shoulder back seams
  2. Sew sleeves in flat
  3. Sew pockets to front and back pieces, matching at notch
  4. Sew side seams, going around the pockets
  5. Sew leg inseams
  6. Sew back together, stopping at the crotch seam
  7. Sew neck binding around neck while it is still open
  8. Sew front seam
  9. Hem legs and sleeves

Scrappy Ogdens

The Ogden Cami by True Bias has been incredibly popular and it is easy to see why. It is a super flattering top that is pretty fast to sew up and it doesn’t use up a lot of fabric. I made my black and white diamond version out of leftover fabric from my hudson pants. Basically now if there is any project that I’ve completed with a woven pattern I’m always looking to see if I can get a Ogden Cami out of the leftover fabric. For each of these versions I’ve been able to barely cut the cami out of fabric but I don’t have enough for the partial lining. I just bought 1/4 yard of lining fabric for each version and (although sometimes its a smidge short) I’m able to fit the lining pieces on to that. The only change I made from my last version was I shortened the straps by about an inch and a half.

This version is made with leftover Liberty of London fabric that I used to make my Deer and Doe Datura blouse. The liberty fabric is quite busy so it is perfect for a tank top and I love wearing this version with a cardigan over it to break up the busy print even more.

Then I made a version out of leftover fabric from my chambray alder shirtdress. This version is such a good basic – easy to throw on with jeans and I think it will be really cute with shorts in the summer too.

For my final version (for now), I made a version out of leftover fabric from my Suki Kimono. I really loved this fabric! I know wearing a robe over jeans and a tee is pretty popular right now but I don’t think I’ll be wearing my version of the Suki that way. I’m so happy that I had just enough fabric to cut out this cami so I can wear this fabric outside of lounging around my apartment.

I’ll probably make 20 more of these in Summer. I love that this is like the “buy one get one free” feeling of getting a great deal when you are shopping but with home sewing! It feels super satisfying and like I’m getting free camis with each project!