Pants

This are the pants I started during Camp Workroom Social actually like 2 years ago now… My first year at camp I took the bra making class but last time I took pants fitting using the Palmer Pletch method of tissue fitting. It was a super interesting class and I learned a lot not only about tissue fitting but also a lot of little tips and tricks for finishing off garments.

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My fabric is actually super stretchy. One of the things I learned in class that the grainline is not always parallel to the selvedge. If your fabric is very stretchy in the direction that is parallel to the selvedge then the grainline is actually perpendicular to the selvedge. It felt really strange to cut with the grainline perpendicular to the selvedge but it does make sense that you want the stretchiest direction to be going around your body. Overall these pants are super comfortable because they actually fit and because the fabric is so stretchy.

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I don’t really wear a lot of trouser style pants but I’ve used the tissue fitting method on my lander shorts and it worked really well. I love not having to make a muslin which can feel like a waste of fabric! I don’t think I can use this method on pants where there is negative ease though unfortunately but now I can compare this pattern to other patterns to get an idea of what adjustments I may need to make even if I can’t tissue fit them.

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I’m wearing these pants with my Nikko Top. The top of my pants actually don’t quite fit not because of the class but because its been about a year and a half since I took the class. If I make these pants again I’d probably raise the rise slightly and I’d also have to do some additional fitting at the waist. If I’m telling the truth I was kinda rushing through the actual sewing steps because I really wanted to be able to leave class with pants that were done. Some parts are a little sloppy on the inside but you really can’t tell from the outside. Otherwise I’m super happy with them and its really nice to have a pants option that isn’t either jeans or leggings! Overall though what I got out of the class was so much more than a pair of pants! I’m really glad I took this class because I learned so much!

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Black and White Striped Hemlock

I made this Hemlock Tee by Grainline Studios a while back with some black and white jersey striped fabric I got from Girl Charlee. I started by making no changes to the pattern since it is a one size fits all pattern and I wasn’t sure what to expect. After making it and trying it on I ended up shortening the hem of the shirt and the sleeves pretty significantly. Before I hemmed it I was feeling quite overwhelmed by the stripes. I still kinda think they make me look like a prisoner and/or a mime.

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Other than that this was a pretty quick and easy make. I actually made this before I made my striped sweater knit version and my cloud knit version but because it isn’t as exciting I ended up posting about those other two versions first. After making this version I decided that I wanted long sleeves that were a bit slimmer so all of my subsequent versions have a modified sleeve and also are modified for the split hem. I think the split hem adds a bit of visual interest to an otherwise pretty basic pattern. The Hemlock is a great pattern for showcasing a really nice fabric (which this is not). I really love my sweater knit versions but its nice to have this as a lighter weight more casual (prison??) shirt.

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Rib Knit Nikko Top

This is my second time making the Nikko Top by True Bias. The first version I made I used a striped bamboo knit. This time I used a rib knit. I love the color – I don’t have anything else like it in my wardrobe. This is going to get a lot of wear this summer.

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This top came together really quickly! Its always faster to make a pattern the second time around and since this pattern doesn’t have any zippers, buttons/button holes, etc. it really doesn’t take a lot of time to come together. I just finished the hem with a zigzag stitch instead of breaking out my coverstitch machine because I figured I’d mostly be wearing this tucked in anyway and it doesn’t really matter what the hem looks like.

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I love the sleeveless version but next time I’m thinking about making either a long sleeve version or a dress version or maybe the long sleeve dress version?? Either way I probably won’t tackle that for a while because I have a lot of sewing planned before I would get to that so I have a long time to decide!

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I don’t have a ton to add because it is fairly simple to make and I’ve made it before. I definitely recommend this pattern if you haven’t tried it yet! I was skeptical about the mock turtleneck since I hate having anything that close to my neck but it doesn’t bother me too much and definitely adds a little flare that a basic tank top wouldn’t!

Floral Melilot

At the last minute I decided to participate in Shirt Month and just barely made the deadline to finish my shirt by February 28th. I made the Deer and Doe Melilot. This is my second time making the Melilot. The first Melilot I made has a few mistakes and I wanted to see if I could remedy those mistakes with a new version.

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In my original version I followed my measurements to grade out at the hips because I am quite pear shaped. However, my hips are most wide really below where a shirt would hit me.  The shirt also has a good amount of ease built in to it so grading up wasn’t strictly necessary to get the shirt to fit me. This means that I graded up way too much and the shirt kinda sticks out at the sides. For this version I graded from a size 34 at the bust and waist out to a size 36 at the hips. I also shortened this version by 1″. My first version I shortened by 2″ and it would come untucked at the sides.

The directions of the Melilot have you interface both sides of the collar and collar stand. I’ve made several shirts since my first Melilot and it seems a little odd to interface both. Instead of doing that I ended up following the directions for the Closet Case Patterns Kalle Shirtdress for interfacing and sewing the collar.

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Another detail I stole from the Kalle was the bias faced hem. The Melilot directions have you just turn up the hem and sew it and my first version sticks out at the sides. I got a much flatter hem, especially at the curve, with the bias tape method.

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Next time I make this I think I will also steal the sleeve cuffs from the Kalle. The cuffs on this version are just a rectangle folded in half and they stick out quite a bit. This apparently bothered me with my first version but I didn’t remember so I didn’t change it for this version. The cuffs on the Kalle are shaped and lay a lot flatter. At this point should I just make the Kalle instead of the Melilot? The body shape of the shirt is a lot different so I think I’ll just mash up the patterns and make a Kall-iliot? The Kalle is very boxy and comes in a cropped, tunic or dress length so the Melilot with some details from the Kalle really is a completely different shirt pattern.

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I used this rayon cotton floral voile from blackbird fabrics and I absolutely love it! It is super easy to sew with. even though it is very light weight it is not shifty at all. Because it is so light weight I’m not sure that I would make a dress out of it but I do love the fabric for a top. Originally I didn’t want to pattern match the front because the button band/ shirt details get lost in the pattern but when I didn’t pattern match I got some weird twinning of the pattern on the front so I ended up re-cutting one of the sides and pattern matching to avoid any unwanted twinning.

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Anyway, I’m so glad I decided to make this shirt at the last minute because I’ve already worn it a ton. At first I was a little worried that it looked too much like a Hawaiian shirt but I’ve been wearing it tucked in mostly and I feel like that reduces the Hawaiian shirt vibes.

 

Pooze Pouch aka Fanny Pack!

I would have never thought that I would make a fanny pack but when I saw fanny packs that my friend Maeve was making I was intrigued. I was pumped when she asked me to be a pattern tester for the Pooze Pouch!

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I made the fanny pack out of a kid skin leather. Kid skin leather is very thin and thus fairly easy to work with. I made this entire fanny pack using my Kenmore sewing machine that my dad got for me before I went to college. There are certainly some spots where I struggled but overall my machine was able to handle it just fine. However, I will say that using leather for my first time making this pattern maybe wasn’t the best choice. It would have been a lot easier to be able to use pins on this pattern especially since this was my first fanny pack. The pattern says it is for “the adventurous sewer” and I’d agree with that. Making this fanny pack stretched my sewing brain more than any other project has in a long while. However, I have been struggling with fit lately on a couple garments in a row and it was so refreshing to not have to worry about fitting on this one!

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I lined it with left over fabric from my Deer and Doe Melilot. This pattern is perfect for scrap busting! I just really love the Robert Kaufman dot chambray that I used for the lining so much that I almost wish that I used that for the outer instead of the leather. I think I may have enough left over for another Pooze Pouch though… The Pooze Pouch is fully lined. The way you line the bag is so smart because even though the bag is fully lined and all seams are enclosed, the lining is attached to the outer bag so the lining is stabilized.

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Instead of getting a regular zipper I got zipper tape and sides to create my dream zipper. I used two slides for the main pocket for ease of access. I would not recommend doing this for your first time since my seam allowance of my zipper was different than what the pattern was drafted for and I had to make some adjustments when sewing in the zipper. However, I’m super happy with how my zipper came out!

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I haven’t been wearing my Pooze Pouch much since its been pretty cold here until recently. I’m excited to wear this especially while walking my dog or going places where I want easy access to my things. However, part of me feels like I’m just not trendy enough to pull off wearing a fanny pack. It seems like wearing it as a cross body bag is pretty popular but I may have made my webbing a little too short… I like wearing it at my waist but it will take some getting used to.

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Chambray Kalle Tunic

I’ve made two other versions of the Kalle Shirtdress by Closet Case Patterns but this is my first time making the tunic version. I really love both the dress version and the shirt version that I’ve made and I thought the tunic version would be perfect to throw on over leggings. Its super easy to wear and very comfortable.

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I honestly love making the Kalle. The instructions are great! The drafting is great! Its easy to fit! I’m especially proud of my pop-over placket on this one.

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I also love the dramatic high low hem. The tunic and shirtdress both have a bias tape hem finish which helps the hem lay flat. I really love the end result and have started adding this to other button up shirts.

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I also really love this fabric. It is a chambray shirting that I got a while back while I was in NYC for Camp Workroom Social. It presses really nicely and doesn’t get super wrinkly throughout the day.

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I also love the box pleat at the back. I feel like I’ll get the most wear out of this tunic in the fall when I can layer it with leggings and cardigans. I wore my dress version of the Kalle a lot last Summer and I may end up making another one just to have another one to wear!

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Moon Dust Talvikki

One of my favorite makes from this winter was the Talvikki Sweater by Named Clothing. This is my first time making a pattern by Named although I’ve had the Inari Dress pattern for forever and never ended up making it.

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There are a couple of details that this pattern has that I’m obsessed with. The main one is the back hem. You may have noticed that I love a split hem but I never realized what I was missing out on with this slightly curved back hem. While I was sewing this up I was just amazed by the slight curve on the back hem and how little details like that really make a garment special.

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I also love the turtleneck. I am not super in to turtlenecks so I like that the band sits further away from you neck. I love the darts that shape the collar – such a fun detail!! I love that this sweatshirt is so easy to throw on but I still feel trendy and cool when I’m wearing it because of all of the thoughtful details.

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The fabric I used is the Moon Dust Double Knit in Navy with Pink Speckle from blackbird fabrics. The fabric is a wool blend with a polyester backing so it is warm without having the itchy wool against your skin. The backing of the fabric is black. It seems like the Talvikki is meant to have the sleeves rolled up, which doesn’t really work with the black backing on this fabric. Instead I slimmed down the sleeves significantly so that they aren’t getting in the way.

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I’m also wearing my third pair of Avery Leggings by Helen’s Closet. They aren’t that interesting in these pictures but I’m going to get so much wear out of them and they are so comfy!