Wedding Guest Amy Jumpsuit

I spent about two months stressing over what I would wear to a wedding in August. After my first dress idea fell through because I didn’t realize that I needed to wear sage green and my wearable muslin of my Anna Dress/ Burnside bibs mash up didn’t feel quite right I really was procrastinating on making a final decision. Part of my issue was that I had too many ideas and I just couldn’t figure out which one to go with. Since I don’t wear a lot of sage green and sage green isn’t necessarily a color that I get excited about I wanted to make something a little bit unexpected. I ended up making a spreadsheet of every idea that I was considering and then I made my boyfriend rank them in order and I ranked them in order and then I added our rankings together and the Closet Case Patterns Amy Jumpsuit won! I honestly wasn’t considering the Amy Jumpsuit until the day I put the spreadsheet together but when I went through and compared all of my options the Amy Jumpsuit was actually my number 1 choice. It definitely had the unexpected element but also was a great match for the fabric which is a linen viscose blend.

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The other reason why this was a great match was that I really procrastinated to the last minute and I only had 2 weeks to make my outfit. I knew the jumpsuit would come together quickly and since it is loose fitting I totally skipped the muslin phase which would have been necessary with a more fitted dress or jumpsuit. Despite this I was a little bit worried about the fit. The instructions say that the jumpsuit is very loose fitting in the hips so unless your hips are more than 3 sizes larger than your bust you do not need to grade between sizes. My hips are more like 6 sizes larger than my bust so I wasn’t really sure whether I should grade out. In the end I ended up cutting out a size 0 at the bust, 2 at the waist and 4 at the hips. Since my hip measurement was 3 sizes larger than the size 4 I figured that would give me plenty of room without going overboard. I also shortened the waist 1/2″. After the jumpsuit was finished I ended up cutting 1″ off of the hem and then folding the hemp up 1/4″ and then 1/2″, which is a slightly larger hem than the pattern is drafted for. I’m 5’2″ and definitely would have expected to need to shorten the jumpsuit a lot more so if you are taller you may want to add length or make a muslin.

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I love how the jumpsuit came out and I feel like its definitely something that I can wear again and dress down for a more casual look. The fabric is the Viscose Linen Noil in Ocean Mist from Blackbird Fabrics. The jumpsuit wads super comfortable to wear and definitely the right choice for the outdoor wedding.

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By the time I had picked out which pattern I wanted to make and gotten the pattern printed I basically had one weekend to get this done. Luckily it came together super quickly and I even had time to make my boyfriend a tie. It was my first time making a tie and I used a free pattern. I can’t say that I would recommend that pattern though so I won’t mention which one because it was a bit wonky and the pattern pieces didn’t line up quite right. If I decide to make a tie in the future I’d definitely spend money on a pattern and eliminate the headache.

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I am in the middle of eating a cracker in this picture and you can definitely tell but I have no regrets.

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Anna Dress/ Burnside Bibs Mash Up

Last week I posted about the dress I made that I was originally planning to wear to a wedding. When I found out that I needed to wear sage green to the wedding it was clear that I needed a plan B. Since I was already almost done making the Eve Dress I didn’t want to make that pattern again just in a different fabric. I ended up getting a linen viscose blend in ocean mist (not exactly sage but I got approval from the bride) from blackbird fabrics to wear to the wedding so I wanted make something that would suit the fabric. I also don’t wear a lot/ any sage green and I also don’t go to many weddings so I was feeling a bit out of my comfort zone for what to make. I wanted to make something that would be fun to wear and be a bit unexpected. I decided I wanted to make a jumpsuit.

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After looking at jumpsuit patterns I didn’t see any patterns that were exactly what I wanted. I really liked the fit in the legs of my burnside bibs and I had also recently made the By Hand London Anna Dress and was really happy with the fit in the bodice of that dress so I decided instead of starting from a whole new jumpsuit pattern I would mash up two patterns that I had recently made.

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Needless to say this was a lot more difficult than I thought it would be. I knew the biggest issue would be getting the waistline on the pants to match up with the waistline on the bodice. Because the burnside bibs are gathered up in the tie in the back there is definitely more fabric than you actually would want in a jumpsuit. When I went to line it up the waistline on the bodice back was actually longer than the waistline on the back of the bibs pants. I spent a long time trying to get all of the seams to match up. The bibs front also needed to be extended up since part of the bib actually meets the back. Since I was getting rid of the bib I had to add length to the front above the crotch to make sure that the front and back legs were the same length.

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At this point you might be thinking “… but this clearly is not sage green”. You are correct. This is just my wearable muslin of my jumpsuit made out of some Robert Kaufman Brussels washer linen I had sitting around for a while. As this was my first version there are definitely changes I want to make for my next version. The front crotch length is a bit too long, which also makes the hip point too low so there are drag lines there as well. Additionally I don’t really like the proportions of how high the pants come up. I would probably draft a waistband piece to go between the bodice and pants to visually create a line across my body at that point.

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Coming up probably next week will be the end result of what I actually ended up making to wear to the wedding!

Zadie Romper

I’ve been loving my first Zadie Jumpsuit but since its Summer I wanted a shorts version. I made this version out of the sandwashed rayon from Stonemountain and Daughter. I really love this fabric! It is so comfortable to wear and I love the slight color variations. Also – I used 2 yards of fabric for the shorts version cut single layer (size 6 at the bust size 8 at the hips).

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I made a lot of changes from my first version. I took an additional 1/2″ from the length of the bodice. I also sized down one size in the legs. I drafted a facing instead of bias tape to finish the neckline opening. In order to do this I also added 3/8″ seam allowance to the neckline. I interfaced my facings, the pocket openings on the front pant, waist ties and either side of the slit in the seam that the waist tie goes through. I also stay stitched before starting any of the other steps. I stay stitched the front and back bodice neckline, the pocket side of the pocket opening and the back crotch seam. Because I wanted to make the shorts version but I wasn’t sure how much I would need to shorten them I gave myself 9″ down from the crotch (which was too much – next time I’d probably give myself 7″ which will still be plenty).

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The first version I made I pretty much followed the instructions as they were written but for this version I went more with my gut on the order to do things. For example some of the seams I serged the raw edge on before sewing the seam instead of sewing the seam and then serging the edges separately. I love the end result of both versions but this version definitely took more time to make (re:interfacing). I hope the changes I made will help it stand the test of time because I love this romper and I want to wear it until I’m 100 years old at least.

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What do you think? Do you follow pattern instructions exactly as they were written or do you just follow your instinct when sewing the pattern together? I’m definitely the type of person who likes to follow directions exactly so I felt like a bit of a rebel doing things my own way on this one but it felt GOOD!

Zadie Jumpsuit

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I made the Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory Patterns. I had included a wrap jumpsuit in my 2019 make 9 and the Zadie Jumpsuit came out pretty soon after. It seems like everyone has been making it and it looks great on everyone! I am wearing my Zadie with the sandals I made that I posted about last week!

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I made view B which is the “sleeveless” version. I made size 6 at the bust and graded out to size 10 at waist/ hips. I shortened bodice 1/2″ and I shortened crotch rise 2″. Next time I might size down in the legs and shorten the bodice more. I also might do a sway back adjustment. I also love all of the shorts versions I’ve seen so I might do that next. 

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Although I love the pattern there are a couple of things that I’d change for next time. The bias binding method is different from any method I’ve seen. The Coco’s Loft blog has some tips that look like they’d end up with a better result. In the end I did a bias facing instead of a bias binding. I followed the instructions from Blue Prints for Sewing on sewing a bias tape facing as although she has instructions for sewing the binding as well that look excellent. If I make this again I’d create a facing for the neckline instead of using bias tape. It seems like a pretty common adjustment to add a facing. The Joanna Essentials blog has a tutorial for creating the facing pieces so I’ll definitely try that next.

I think because I changed the way I finished the neckline my waist tie ended up folding over in a weird way and came out above the wrap point instead of below. was pretty unhappy with the way it felt until I realize that my ties were in the wrong place and not parallel to the ground. Once I moved them to the right place the ties weren’t pulling in a weird spot and now I’m super happy with the fit. The extra 30 minutes to redo the waist ties was definitely worth it!

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I used the mora slub linen viscose blend from Stonemountain and Daughter. The fabric was pretty shifty and grew quite a bit while I was working with it. Next time I’d interface the pocket bag openings and I’d either interface or stay stitch the back crotch seam.

Otherwise its super comfortable and fun to wear! I’m sure I’ll get a ton of wear out of it this summer.