Moon Dust Talvikki

One of my favorite makes from this winter was the Talvikki Sweater by Named Clothing. This is my first time making a pattern by Named although I’ve had the Inari Dress pattern for forever and never ended up making it.

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There are a couple of details that this pattern has that I’m obsessed with. The main one is the back hem. You may have noticed that I love a split hem but I never realized what I was missing out on with this slightly curved back hem. While I was sewing this up I was just amazed by the slight curve on the back hem and how little details like that really make a garment special.

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I also love the turtleneck. I am not super in to turtlenecks so I like that the band sits further away from you neck. I love the darts that shape the collar – such a fun detail!! I love that this sweatshirt is so easy to throw on but I still feel trendy and cool when I’m wearing it because of all of the thoughtful details.

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The fabric I used is the Moon Dust Double Knit in Navy with Pink Speckle from blackbird fabrics. The fabric is a wool blend with a polyester backing so it is warm without having the itchy wool against your skin. The backing of the fabric is black. It seems like the Talvikki is meant to have the sleeves rolled up, which doesn’t really work with the black backing on this fabric. Instead I slimmed down the sleeves significantly so that they aren’t getting in the way.

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I’m also wearing my third pair of Avery Leggings by Helen’s Closet. They aren’t that interesting in these pictures but I’m going to get so much wear out of them and they are so comfy!

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Avery Leggings Pattern Test

I have leggings on my 2018 make 9 but I wasn’t sure which pattern I wanted to use. I have previously made leggings using a self drafted pattern but I wasn’t sure if I wanted to keep using that or if I wanted to try a different pattern. When Helen asked if I wanted to be a tester for the Avery leggings I was super excited. They have a wide waist band and a gusset, which my self drafted leggings did not have. Because I’m pretty short I made view A for both pairs of leggings since I suspect that the super high waist would hit me in a weird place.

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I had some fabric in my stash that I was planning on making leggings out of but the fabric was just plain black, which isn’t very fun for pattern testing. The fabric I had in my stash also does not have the right stretch percentage. The biggest thing I learned in making this pattern is how important stretch percentage is! Make sure your fabrics have the right percentage! 70% is quite a bit so don’t just assume that because your fabric has spandex in it that it will work. This is particularly tough ordering fabrics online since many sites do not list stretch percentages. I ordered two different fabrics to test with from Stonemountain and Daughter without knowing the stretch percentages and I have pretty varied results.

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The first fabric I used was this incredible Yoga Cloth in Gray. This fabric is the perfect fabric for these leggings – it has the right amount of stretch! I’m 5′ 1 1/2″ and since the pattern is drafted for someone 5′ 6″ I shortened the legs by 1″. I normally would shorten pants by a little more but I would much rather have leggings that are slightly long than leggings that are slightly too short so I decided to err on the side of caution. They fit great! The waist definitely hits me above my belly button so even though this is view A because I’m so short it fits a bit more like view B, which I love.

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The second version I made was out of this pleather look scuba knit (WARNING: This fabric absolutely does not have enough stretch!) It looks like the color I used is sold out but they still have it in black. The fabric just barely stretches to 70% crosswise (but its definitely feels strained) and stretches to maybe 40% length wise. I decided to go for it anyway because I really liked the idea of pleather look leggings.

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For this version I did not shorten the legs by 1″ and I also did not hem them because hemming them would have made them too short! I’ve never had an issue with too short pants before but since it is a scuba knit it is totally fine to leave them unhemmed.

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I also used a smaller seam allowance to give myself a little more room. They are definitely a tad tight and not as comfortable as my yoga cloth ones but I love them anyway. If I was going to make leggings with this fabric again I think I would size up a full size and also make view B to give myself a longer waistband and longer leg length.

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