This was my first time making a pattern by Sew House Seven and the instructions for these were just so good and sewing them was a thoroughly pleasant experience. I really enjoyed sewing these… except that I made some pretty big mistakes. At one point I was ready to throw these in the trash!
The first mistake I made was to size down too much in the legs. The back of the bibs have extra room and the ties pull in this extra fabric. I wanted to minimize the amount of bunching that happens above the butt so I decided to size down. I mistakenly thought that because the pattern didn’t include finished garment measurements for the hips but did for many other measurements that I would be safe to size down. It was not safe to size down.
The second mistake I made was with fabric choice. While I was committed to making light pink burnside bibs my fabric was a little on the sheer side. I was a little nervous about this at first but I found some examples of other people who made them out of the same fabric and I figured it would be fine. It was not fine.
This is a picture of the baste fit for my burnside bibs. They are definitely too tight in the hips but the part that I couldn’t get over was how sheer they were. While you couldn’t really see through them you could really see the seam allowance of the fabric underneath and it just really hated how they looked. I did some research and decided to underline them with cotton batiste. I didn’t want to use a rayon because I didn’t want the underlining to bag inside of the pants. There were a ton of options that contained polyester but I finally found a just cotton one! I then had to entirely take apart the bibs and start over. Technically I left the pockets on but otherwise it was a complete restart. I ended up sewing the legs at a slightly smaller seam allowance which gave me just enough room. Thank goodness they were so fun to sew!
Most projects I work on go relatively smoothly… I feel like this was the first time that I really had to go back and make some major changes to a project. Although it was really frustrating at the time I feel like I learned a lot more making these than I have with many of my other projects recently. I’m not sure how many pairs of overalls I need but I have seen some really cute shorts versions! I’m glad I didn’t end up throwing them in the trash because I really love them now!
This are the pants I started during Camp Workroom Social actually like 2 years ago now… My first year at camp I took the bra making class but last time I took pants fitting using the Palmer Pletch method of tissue fitting. It was a super interesting class and I learned a lot not only about tissue fitting but also a lot of little tips and tricks for finishing off garments.
My fabric is actually super stretchy. One of the things I learned in class that the grainline is not always parallel to the selvedge. If your fabric is very stretchy in the direction that is parallel to the selvedge then the grainline is actually perpendicular to the selvedge. It felt really strange to cut with the grainline perpendicular to the selvedge but it does make sense that you want the stretchiest direction to be going around your body. Overall these pants are super comfortable because they actually fit and because the fabric is so stretchy.
I don’t really wear a lot of trouser style pants but I’ve used the tissue fitting method on my lander shorts and it worked really well. I love not having to make a muslin which can feel like a waste of fabric! I don’t think I can use this method on pants where there is negative ease though unfortunately but now I can compare this pattern to other patterns to get an idea of what adjustments I may need to make even if I can’t tissue fit them.
I’m wearing these pants with my Nikko Top. The top of my pants actually don’t quite fit not because of the class but because its been about a year and a half since I took the class. If I make these pants again I’d probably raise the rise slightly and I’d also have to do some additional fitting at the waist. If I’m telling the truth I was kinda rushing through the actual sewing steps because I really wanted to be able to leave class with pants that were done. Some parts are a little sloppy on the inside but you really can’t tell from the outside. Otherwise I’m super happy with them and its really nice to have a pants option that isn’t either jeans or leggings! Overall though what I got out of the class was so much more than a pair of pants! I’m really glad I took this class because I learned so much!
Up until now I had made every pattern that Helen’s Closet has released except the Winslow Culottes. I was hesitant to make culottes at all because they are super trendy and I like to stick to more classic styles. I also was hesitant to make them because I just don’t think they are very flattering. I’m a pear shape but also pretty short. Due to the length they make my legs look shorter and there is just SOO much fabric around the hips. For these blog photos I decided to pair the culottes with my nettie body suit which has bold horizontal stripe in order to draw more attention to my upper body/ seem more balanced.
To be quite honest, it is still way too cold in Wisconsin to wear these outside. However, it is SUPER FUN to wear these! they are just so big and swishy but you don’t have to worry about flashing people. I’m not sure at this point how much I’ll actually wear them but I think once it warms up a bit I’ll wear them more often.
I mean – just look at all of that fabric! The good news about this pattern is really the only measurement that matters is the waist measurement and there aren’t that many fitting issues that could come up.
This fabric is tencel twill from the Blackbird Fabrics shop. I originally was planning on making the knee length version of the culottes again because I think this length isn’t great on me but I had enough fabric that I decided to just make the longer version since I can always hem them again if I decide I don’t like this length. I’ll probably wait a few months to see how much I actually wear them at this length and then make a decision. What do you think? Should I chop these off and make them knee length?