Willow Tank And Ginger Jorts

This post is going to be a 2 for 1 but I’ve made both of these patterns before! I made the Grainline Studio Willow Tank and the Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans as shorts. I’ve made two versions of the willow tank before (a cropped version and a regular version) and I’ve made three pairs of Ginger Jeans before. Version one is the high waisted version. I actually used left over denim from that version to make these shorts so its a pretty interesting comparison to see how far I’ve come since my first Ginger Jeans! Version two and version three are both the low rise version.

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Don’t tell my other willow tanks but this version is by far my favorite. The fabric just hangs away from my body and is so light and airy. It feels amazing to wear and I’m sure this is going to get lots of wears! I used the Loominous fabric by Anna Maria Horner. The design is completely woven in to the fabric!

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Just look how cool that fabric is! I got this fabric from a local quilting shop and they didn’t quite have enough fabric but I made it work and was able to fit it all on the fabric I had.

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I’ve made the high rise Ginger Jeans and two pairs of low rise but I’ve been wanting something more in the middle so I decided I wanted to try the mid-rise version. Since I’ve been struggling a bit with the fit I wanted to make a short muslin of the mid-rise before I go for the full length jeans. These shorts are definitely my best fitting pair so far but I’m still struggling with the crotch. This fabric does stretch out throughout the day and is a bit thinner and with a higher sheen than the cone mills denim I used for my other pairs so it definitely shows the wrinkles more. Other than that they fit pretty well though… I’m thinking that I might try the Megan Nielsen Ash Jeans though to see if those have the same issues with the crotch. Have any of you tried the ash jeans? From pictures it seems like people aren’t having as many crotch issues but it also calls for fabric with more stretch…

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I adjusted the back yoke since my last pair and they are fitting much better in that area! I feel like I’m really close on getting this pattern to fit exactly how I want it to but I’m also a bit discouraged that after 4 versions I still haven’t figured out the crotch… I took apart a pair of ready to wear jeans that were threadbare and I’m hoping to compare those to my pattern for the Ginger Jeans that I’ve been adjusting and the Ash Jeans and then decide what my next step will be.

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Red Lander Shorts

I’ve been wearing my Lander shorts almost every single day so I figured I needed another pair. I’ve been trying to use up fabric from my stash so when I came across this leftover fabric from my tulip skirt I decided to use it. Red wouldn’t necessarily be my first choice for shorts but since I was trying out some different things this time around I figured if it didn’t work out it wouldn’t be a big loss if it didn’t work out.

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I decided I wanted to try the fly front version. At first I thought I’d just get the expansion pack from True Bias but I made so many changes to my pattern already for fit I thought it actually may save me time to just try to hack it myself. I basically just traced the fronts with the fly piece overlapping the fronts, lining up the seam line.

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I followed the True Bias blog tutorial to change the pockets to be internal. I also added just a small amount additional amount of curve to the back of the waistband. Other than that those were the only changes.

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I followed the closet case patterns tutorial for the ginger jeans for installing the fly. I just ignored the steps for topstitching the second row.

Lander Shorts and Nikko Top

I made the True Bias Lander Shorts and Nikko Top to take on my trip to Maui. The Lander Shorts were on my 2018 make 9 but the Nikko Top was a bit more of an impulse make since I wanted something that would look good with my shorts and Kelli just always looks so cute when she wears hers together. The Nikko Top was a super last minute make for the trip and it isn’t even hemmed in any of these pictures.

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I honestly was very unsure that the lander pants/ shorts could work for me because of the wide leg and because I am such a pear shape. When I talked to Kelli she suggested starting with the shorts version! I have to say I think these are my favorite shorts that I’ve ever owned. They are roomy and comfortable while being stylish. I absolutely love them!

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Having said that I did make a ton of pattern modifications. I started with the tissue fitting method that I learned at Camp Workroom Social. I love that you can get a pretty good fit without having to muslin and in the process you transfer all of your adjustments to the pattern. I also got the updated Palmer Pletch book on fitting and I’m excited to try this method on non-pants. I did shorten the rise significantly since I’m pretty short in the torso. I also shortened the pockets as well. Because this method has you cut a straight size from your hip measurement I did have to widen the darts just a bit. I added some curve to the waistband which meant that I had to cut two pieces instead of one piece that you fold over.

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The Nikko Top was much simpler – I just graded out from a size 2 at the bust to a size 8 at the hips and shortened by 1 inch. I’m super happy with how it turned out though I’m definitely not sold on the turtle neck thing. I’ve never liked wearing turtle necks and having that much fabric around my neck. It will probably take some getting used to but this is the softest bamboo knit so I’m hoping it will be an easy adjustment.

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I wore this outfit hiking around some waterfalls on Maui and it was a success! Unfortunately I spilled at least 3 things on my shorts that day and couldn’t wear them the rest of the trip! I know I will get a ton of use out of these this summer and they’ll be one of the first things I throw on after they get out of the wash.