Another Ogden with Fabric from my Zadie

I’ve made several Ogden Camis in the past. Basically any time I have enough fabric left over from my last project I make an ogden. I actually haven’t been wearing my ogdens that much this summer and at this point I have a ton of them so I may need to find another pattern soon that will use such a small amount of fabric. I do love layering my ogdens so I actually think I get more wear out of them in cooler months.

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This one is made out of scraps left over from my Zadie Jumpsuit (both of which are made out of the mora slub linen viscose blend from Stonemountain and Daughter). I had just barely enough fabric to cut this out and ended up cutting one of the lining pieces on the cross grain, which seems to have worked out ok in this fabric!

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Even though I’ve made several ogden cami’s in the past this time I cut a size 0 which is a size down from the ones I’ve made in the past. I’ve changed shape a little since my first ogden cami so I definitely needed to size down. Maybe I’ll end up wearing this version more because the fit is much better than my previous ogdens.

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Speaking of my previous ogden cami’s, heres all the ogdens I’ve made:

  1. Black and White ogden
  2. Liberty ogden, Chambray ogden and Red Floral ogden all in one post
  3. Tropical ogden dress hack

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Willow Tank And Ginger Jorts

This post is going to be a 2 for 1 but I’ve made both of these patterns before! I made the Grainline Studio Willow Tank and the Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans as shorts. I’ve made two versions of the willow tank before (a cropped version and a regular version) and I’ve made three pairs of Ginger Jeans before. Version one is the high waisted version. I actually used left over denim from that version to make these shorts so its a pretty interesting comparison to see how far I’ve come since my first Ginger Jeans! Version two and version three are both the low rise version.

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Don’t tell my other willow tanks but this version is by far my favorite. The fabric just hangs away from my body and is so light and airy. It feels amazing to wear and I’m sure this is going to get lots of wears! I used the Loominous fabric by Anna Maria Horner. The design is completely woven in to the fabric!

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Just look how cool that fabric is! I got this fabric from a local quilting shop and they didn’t quite have enough fabric but I made it work and was able to fit it all on the fabric I had.

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I’ve made the high rise Ginger Jeans and two pairs of low rise but I’ve been wanting something more in the middle so I decided I wanted to try the mid-rise version. Since I’ve been struggling a bit with the fit I wanted to make a short muslin of the mid-rise before I go for the full length jeans. These shorts are definitely my best fitting pair so far but I’m still struggling with the crotch. This fabric does stretch out throughout the day and is a bit thinner and with a higher sheen than the cone mills denim I used for my other pairs so it definitely shows the wrinkles more. Other than that they fit pretty well though… I’m thinking that I might try the Megan Nielsen Ash Jeans though to see if those have the same issues with the crotch. Have any of you tried the ash jeans? From pictures it seems like people aren’t having as many crotch issues but it also calls for fabric with more stretch…

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I adjusted the back yoke since my last pair and they are fitting much better in that area! I feel like I’m really close on getting this pattern to fit exactly how I want it to but I’m also a bit discouraged that after 4 versions I still haven’t figured out the crotch… I took apart a pair of ready to wear jeans that were threadbare and I’m hoping to compare those to my pattern for the Ginger Jeans that I’ve been adjusting and the Ash Jeans and then decide what my next step will be.

Grainline Hadley Tank

I’ve made the Grainline Hadley before in a double gauze but I’ve always loved the v-neck version. I think the neckline looks so good on everyone – so flattering and elegant! I used the Splatter Paint rayon fabric from Workroom Social. I absolutely loved working with this fabric – it feels more substantial than other rayon fabrics that I’ve used and is pretty easy to work with.

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I used the same size I had when I made my first version but after I was almost completely done I tried it on and it was way too big! I ended up taking in the side seams/ facing side seams quite a bit and now I’m happy with the fit! Next time though I’ll probably re-measure and probably cut a different size. I may also raise the neckline just slightly because even though it is very elegant its a little low for everyday for me.

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I also love the shape of the hem on this shirt. My first version was the higher neckline which has a hook and eye closure at the back. I don’t know why but my hook and eye never stay closed! I think I may need a narrow shoulder adjustment or something to get the top to lay flat against my skin to prevent it from coming open but until I figure that out I’ll just stick with the lower neck version that doesn’t require the hook and eye.

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This tank top is also perfect for layering underneath cardigans. I’m wearing it here with my Helen’s closet blackwood cardigan, which I love.

Photos in this post were taken by the lovely Emmanuelle of the Zoubi Zoubisou blog.

Black and White Striped Hemlock

I made this Hemlock Tee by Grainline Studios a while back with some black and white jersey striped fabric I got from Girl Charlee. I started by making no changes to the pattern since it is a one size fits all pattern and I wasn’t sure what to expect. After making it and trying it on I ended up shortening the hem of the shirt and the sleeves pretty significantly. Before I hemmed it I was feeling quite overwhelmed by the stripes. I still kinda think they make me look like a prisoner and/or a mime.

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Other than that this was a pretty quick and easy make. I actually made this before I made my striped sweater knit version and my cloud knit version but because it isn’t as exciting I ended up posting about those other two versions first. After making this version I decided that I wanted long sleeves that were a bit slimmer so all of my subsequent versions have a modified sleeve and also are modified for the split hem. I think the split hem adds a bit of visual interest to an otherwise pretty basic pattern. The Hemlock is a great pattern for showcasing a really nice fabric (which this is not). I really love my sweater knit versions but its nice to have this as a lighter weight more casual (prison??) shirt.

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Rib Knit Nikko Top

This is my second time making the Nikko Top by True Bias. The first version I made I used a striped bamboo knit. This time I used a rib knit. I love the color – I don’t have anything else like it in my wardrobe. This is going to get a lot of wear this summer.

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This top came together really quickly! Its always faster to make a pattern the second time around and since this pattern doesn’t have any zippers, buttons/button holes, etc. it really doesn’t take a lot of time to come together. I just finished the hem with a zigzag stitch instead of breaking out my coverstitch machine because I figured I’d mostly be wearing this tucked in anyway and it doesn’t really matter what the hem looks like.

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I love the sleeveless version but next time I’m thinking about making either a long sleeve version or a dress version or maybe the long sleeve dress version?? Either way I probably won’t tackle that for a while because I have a lot of sewing planned before I would get to that so I have a long time to decide!

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I don’t have a ton to add because it is fairly simple to make and I’ve made it before. I definitely recommend this pattern if you haven’t tried it yet! I was skeptical about the mock turtleneck since I hate having anything that close to my neck but it doesn’t bother me too much and definitely adds a little flare that a basic tank top wouldn’t!

Floral Melilot

At the last minute I decided to participate in Shirt Month and just barely made the deadline to finish my shirt by February 28th. I made the Deer and Doe Melilot. This is my second time making the Melilot. The first Melilot I made has a few mistakes and I wanted to see if I could remedy those mistakes with a new version.

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In my original version I followed my measurements to grade out at the hips because I am quite pear shaped. However, my hips are most wide really below where a shirt would hit me.  The shirt also has a good amount of ease built in to it so grading up wasn’t strictly necessary to get the shirt to fit me. This means that I graded up way too much and the shirt kinda sticks out at the sides. For this version I graded from a size 34 at the bust and waist out to a size 36 at the hips. I also shortened this version by 1″. My first version I shortened by 2″ and it would come untucked at the sides.

The directions of the Melilot have you interface both sides of the collar and collar stand. I’ve made several shirts since my first Melilot and it seems a little odd to interface both. Instead of doing that I ended up following the directions for the Closet Case Patterns Kalle Shirtdress for interfacing and sewing the collar.

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Another detail I stole from the Kalle was the bias faced hem. The Melilot directions have you just turn up the hem and sew it and my first version sticks out at the sides. I got a much flatter hem, especially at the curve, with the bias tape method.

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Next time I make this I think I will also steal the sleeve cuffs from the Kalle. The cuffs on this version are just a rectangle folded in half and they stick out quite a bit. This apparently bothered me with my first version but I didn’t remember so I didn’t change it for this version. The cuffs on the Kalle are shaped and lay a lot flatter. At this point should I just make the Kalle instead of the Melilot? The body shape of the shirt is a lot different so I think I’ll just mash up the patterns and make a Kall-iliot? The Kalle is very boxy and comes in a cropped, tunic or dress length so the Melilot with some details from the Kalle really is a completely different shirt pattern.

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I used this rayon cotton floral voile from blackbird fabrics and I absolutely love it! It is super easy to sew with. even though it is very light weight it is not shifty at all. Because it is so light weight I’m not sure that I would make a dress out of it but I do love the fabric for a top. Originally I didn’t want to pattern match the front because the button band/ shirt details get lost in the pattern but when I didn’t pattern match I got some weird twinning of the pattern on the front so I ended up re-cutting one of the sides and pattern matching to avoid any unwanted twinning.

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Anyway, I’m so glad I decided to make this shirt at the last minute because I’ve already worn it a ton. At first I was a little worried that it looked too much like a Hawaiian shirt but I’ve been wearing it tucked in mostly and I feel like that reduces the Hawaiian shirt vibes.

 

Chambray Kalle Tunic

I’ve made two other versions of the Kalle Shirtdress by Closet Case Patterns but this is my first time making the tunic version. I really love both the dress version and the shirt version that I’ve made and I thought the tunic version would be perfect to throw on over leggings. Its super easy to wear and very comfortable.

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I honestly love making the Kalle. The instructions are great! The drafting is great! Its easy to fit! I’m especially proud of my pop-over placket on this one.

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I also love the dramatic high low hem. The tunic and shirtdress both have a bias tape hem finish which helps the hem lay flat. I really love the end result and have started adding this to other button up shirts.

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I also really love this fabric. It is a chambray shirting that I got a while back while I was in NYC for Camp Workroom Social. It presses really nicely and doesn’t get super wrinkly throughout the day.

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I also love the box pleat at the back. I feel like I’ll get the most wear out of this tunic in the fall when I can layer it with leggings and cardigans. I wore my dress version of the Kalle a lot last Summer and I may end up making another one just to have another one to wear!

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