Black and White Striped Hemlock

I made this Hemlock Tee by Grainline Studios a while back with some black and white jersey striped fabric I got from Girl Charlee. I started by making no changes to the pattern since it is a one size fits all pattern and I wasn’t sure what to expect. After making it and trying it on I ended up shortening the hem of the shirt and the sleeves pretty significantly. Before I hemmed it I was feeling quite overwhelmed by the stripes. I still kinda think they make me look like a prisoner and/or a mime.

IMG_7420.JPG

Other than that this was a pretty quick and easy make. I actually made this before I made my striped sweater knit version and my cloud knit version but because it isn’t as exciting I ended up posting about those other two versions first. After making this version I decided that I wanted long sleeves that were a bit slimmer so all of my subsequent versions have a modified sleeve and also are modified for the split hem. I think the split hem adds a bit of visual interest to an otherwise pretty basic pattern. The Hemlock is a great pattern for showcasing a really nice fabric (which this is not). I really love my sweater knit versions but its nice to have this as a lighter weight more casual (prison??) shirt.

IMG_7428

Advertisements

Rib Knit Nikko Top

This is my second time making the Nikko Top by True Bias. The first version I made I used a striped bamboo knit. This time I used a rib knit. I love the color – I don’t have anything else like it in my wardrobe. This is going to get a lot of wear this summer.

fullsizeoutput_180c

This top came together really quickly! Its always faster to make a pattern the second time around and since this pattern doesn’t have any zippers, buttons/button holes, etc. it really doesn’t take a lot of time to come together. I just finished the hem with a zigzag stitch instead of breaking out my coverstitch machine because I figured I’d mostly be wearing this tucked in anyway and it doesn’t really matter what the hem looks like.

fullsizeoutput_180a

I love the sleeveless version but next time I’m thinking about making either a long sleeve version or a dress version or maybe the long sleeve dress version?? Either way I probably won’t tackle that for a while because I have a lot of sewing planned before I would get to that so I have a long time to decide!

fullsizeoutput_180b

I don’t have a ton to add because it is fairly simple to make and I’ve made it before. I definitely recommend this pattern if you haven’t tried it yet! I was skeptical about the mock turtleneck since I hate having anything that close to my neck but it doesn’t bother me too much and definitely adds a little flare that a basic tank top wouldn’t!

Floral Melilot

At the last minute I decided to participate in Shirt Month and just barely made the deadline to finish my shirt by February 28th. I made the Deer and Doe Melilot. This is my second time making the Melilot. The first Melilot I made has a few mistakes and I wanted to see if I could remedy those mistakes with a new version.

fullsizeoutput_1819

In my original version I followed my measurements to grade out at the hips because I am quite pear shaped. However, my hips are most wide really below where a shirt would hit me.  The shirt also has a good amount of ease built in to it so grading up wasn’t strictly necessary to get the shirt to fit me. This means that I graded up way too much and the shirt kinda sticks out at the sides. For this version I graded from a size 34 at the bust and waist out to a size 36 at the hips. I also shortened this version by 1″. My first version I shortened by 2″ and it would come untucked at the sides.

The directions of the Melilot have you interface both sides of the collar and collar stand. I’ve made several shirts since my first Melilot and it seems a little odd to interface both. Instead of doing that I ended up following the directions for the Closet Case Patterns Kalle Shirtdress for interfacing and sewing the collar.

fullsizeoutput_181d

Another detail I stole from the Kalle was the bias faced hem. The Melilot directions have you just turn up the hem and sew it and my first version sticks out at the sides. I got a much flatter hem, especially at the curve, with the bias tape method.

fullsizeoutput_1815

Next time I make this I think I will also steal the sleeve cuffs from the Kalle. The cuffs on this version are just a rectangle folded in half and they stick out quite a bit. This apparently bothered me with my first version but I didn’t remember so I didn’t change it for this version. The cuffs on the Kalle are shaped and lay a lot flatter. At this point should I just make the Kalle instead of the Melilot? The body shape of the shirt is a lot different so I think I’ll just mash up the patterns and make a Kall-iliot? The Kalle is very boxy and comes in a cropped, tunic or dress length so the Melilot with some details from the Kalle really is a completely different shirt pattern.

fullsizeoutput_1866.jpeg

 

I used this rayon cotton floral voile from blackbird fabrics and I absolutely love it! It is super easy to sew with. even though it is very light weight it is not shifty at all. Because it is so light weight I’m not sure that I would make a dress out of it but I do love the fabric for a top. Originally I didn’t want to pattern match the front because the button band/ shirt details get lost in the pattern but when I didn’t pattern match I got some weird twinning of the pattern on the front so I ended up re-cutting one of the sides and pattern matching to avoid any unwanted twinning.

fullsizeoutput_181c

Anyway, I’m so glad I decided to make this shirt at the last minute because I’ve already worn it a ton. At first I was a little worried that it looked too much like a Hawaiian shirt but I’ve been wearing it tucked in mostly and I feel like that reduces the Hawaiian shirt vibes.

 

Chambray Kalle Tunic

I’ve made two other versions of the Kalle Shirtdress by Closet Case Patterns but this is my first time making the tunic version. I really love both the dress version and the shirt version that I’ve made and I thought the tunic version would be perfect to throw on over leggings. Its super easy to wear and very comfortable.

fullsizeoutput_17e7

I honestly love making the Kalle. The instructions are great! The drafting is great! Its easy to fit! I’m especially proud of my pop-over placket on this one.

fullsizeoutput_17ea

I also love the dramatic high low hem. The tunic and shirtdress both have a bias tape hem finish which helps the hem lay flat. I really love the end result and have started adding this to other button up shirts.

fullsizeoutput_17f1

I also really love this fabric. It is a chambray shirting that I got a while back while I was in NYC for Camp Workroom Social. It presses really nicely and doesn’t get super wrinkly throughout the day.

fullsizeoutput_17e9

I also love the box pleat at the back. I feel like I’ll get the most wear out of this tunic in the fall when I can layer it with leggings and cardigans. I wore my dress version of the Kalle a lot last Summer and I may end up making another one just to have another one to wear!

fullsizeoutput_17e1

Moon Dust Talvikki

One of my favorite makes from this winter was the Talvikki Sweater by Named Clothing. This is my first time making a pattern by Named although I’ve had the Inari Dress pattern for forever and never ended up making it.

fullsizeoutput_17ad

There are a couple of details that this pattern has that I’m obsessed with. The main one is the back hem. You may have noticed that I love a split hem but I never realized what I was missing out on with this slightly curved back hem. While I was sewing this up I was just amazed by the slight curve on the back hem and how little details like that really make a garment special.

fullsizeoutput_17af

I also love the turtleneck. I am not super in to turtlenecks so I like that the band sits further away from you neck. I love the darts that shape the collar – such a fun detail!! I love that this sweatshirt is so easy to throw on but I still feel trendy and cool when I’m wearing it because of all of the thoughtful details.

fullsizeoutput_17ab

The fabric I used is the Moon Dust Double Knit in Navy with Pink Speckle from blackbird fabrics. The fabric is a wool blend with a polyester backing so it is warm without having the itchy wool against your skin. The backing of the fabric is black. It seems like the Talvikki is meant to have the sleeves rolled up, which doesn’t really work with the black backing on this fabric. Instead I slimmed down the sleeves significantly so that they aren’t getting in the way.

fullsizeoutput_17b0

I’m also wearing my third pair of Avery Leggings by Helen’s Closet. They aren’t that interesting in these pictures but I’m going to get so much wear out of them and they are so comfy!

Split Hem Linden Sweatshirt

fullsizeoutput_179f

I got this amazing quilted knit fabric about a year and a half ago in the garment district in NYC. I used the Linden Sweatshirt pattern by Grainline Studio. I’ve made this pattern in the past twice – a black and white version with a split hem band and a cropped tropical version. It had been a long time since I made either of those and I forgot how much I like this pattern. It sews up super quickly and I absolutely love the way that all of my versions have turned out. My past two versions were made of fabrics that … I probably wouldn’t use again… I chose them more for the print/pattern than for the feel of the fabrics. But I still wear both of those sweatshirts all of time!

fullsizeoutput_17a1

I altered the pattern to have a split hem. I essentially just lengthened both the front and back pieces by different amounts. After I sewed the sleeves to the front and back pieces I finished the edges of the under arm/body pieces separately. I could then sew from the wrist up to the armpit and back down, stopping at the point I wanted my vent to start. I then hemmed the rest of the top, pivoting at the vents to sew the seam allowance down around both vents. I also lengthened the sleeves and omitted the cuffs on the sleeves. If I was going to make this again I would keep the cuffs because the seam on the sleeves is a little bulky and the hem cuff would at least contain the seam allowances at the wrists.

fullsizeoutput_17a7

The split goes pretty high and the back is a lot longer than a typical sweatshirt. I really like having the top lengthened because I like the drama of it and it makes it feel extra cosy.

fullsizeoutput_17a2

In the future I think I’d make a version out of a bamboo terry or a fabric that is a little softer since I think I would wear it so much. This version is super cosy and I love it but its a little bulky so its a little harder to wear.

Long Sleeve Double Gauze Hadley

fullsizeoutput_1647This is my first time making the Grainline Studio Hadley top. I made view A for this version using a Kokka double gauze fabric I got from Fancy Tiger. I made a straight size 2 and I shortened it by 1 inch. other than that I didn’t make any adjustments. (Clearly I finished this top a while back and took photos a while back since this is not what Wisconsin looks like right now!)

fullsizeoutput_1644

I’m wearing this with my Lander shorts which I wore multiple times a week every week this summer. Maybe now that its cold out I should make some Lander pants?

fullsizeoutput_1645

I love the back hemline and I’ve been super in to hem facings lately. I enjoy sewing them mostly but I also like the structure it provides. I think I’ve been sewing more of them lately because I’ve been making shirts with more dramatic hems. This shirt definitely has a lot of drama in the back – there is a lot of fabric back there. I like the shape but I worry that it is a little overwhelming. Normally I grade out at the hips because I’m pear shaped but I didn’t do that with this pattern because there is already so much fabric there.

fullsizeoutput_15e4

My main issue with this shirt is with the hook and eye closure – I can never get it to stay closed. I have this same problem on my Grainline Studio Farrow dress and I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong… Do I need a narrow shoulder adjustment or something so the back of my shirt moves around less? Or should I just switch to a button and loop? I really don’t know so for now I’ll just be re-hooking multiple times a day.