Jordy Bralettes

Its been a while since I made a bra and I wanted to try a soft bra pattern that I hadn’t tried before. I hadn’t used one of Emerald Erin’s patterns before but I really wanted to give the Jordy Bralette a try. This is something I included on my 2019 make 9 because I definitely wanted to try this pattern this year. I purchased two kits from Emerald Erin’s shop and I made up the nude lace version first. I wore that version for a couple of months to make sure the fit was right before making the black version.

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This pattern is so simple – it is really just two pattern pieces for the sheer version plus some elastic… but it is so genius! I didn’t end up making any changes to my pattern from my first version to my second version. I think part of the beauty of this bra IS the simplicity. You can test the band elastic and easily adjust it if its a little off. I also love that the bra doesn’t come up too high. I made the watson bra a while back and I feel like it pops out the top of some of my lower cut shirts (which aren’t really that low cut).

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I definitely want to try the foam version of this bra at some point. The bra tulle versions were perfect for summer but the foam version looks sooo comfortable. But for my next bra I want to try the Black Beauty bra from Emerald Erin. After making the Jordy I’m really excited to try another of her patterns!

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If you haven’t tried bra making yet I’d definitely recommend this pattern! It comes together so quickly and you don’t need to worry about the underwire or sewing the cups in to a cradle which can be a little tricky.

Wedding Guest Amy Jumpsuit

I spent about two months stressing over what I would wear to a wedding in August. After my first dress idea fell through because I didn’t realize that I needed to wear sage green and my wearable muslin of my Anna Dress/ Burnside bibs mash up didn’t feel quite right I really was procrastinating on making a final decision. Part of my issue was that I had too many ideas and I just couldn’t figure out which one to go with. Since I don’t wear a lot of sage green and sage green isn’t necessarily a color that I get excited about I wanted to make something a little bit unexpected. I ended up making a spreadsheet of every idea that I was considering and then I made my boyfriend rank them in order and I ranked them in order and then I added our rankings together and the Closet Case Patterns Amy Jumpsuit won! I honestly wasn’t considering the Amy Jumpsuit until the day I put the spreadsheet together but when I went through and compared all of my options the Amy Jumpsuit was actually my number 1 choice. It definitely had the unexpected element but also was a great match for the fabric which is a linen viscose blend.

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The other reason why this was a great match was that I really procrastinated to the last minute and I only had 2 weeks to make my outfit. I knew the jumpsuit would come together quickly and since it is loose fitting I totally skipped the muslin phase which would have been necessary with a more fitted dress or jumpsuit. Despite this I was a little bit worried about the fit. The instructions say that the jumpsuit is very loose fitting in the hips so unless your hips are more than 3 sizes larger than your bust you do not need to grade between sizes. My hips are more like 6 sizes larger than my bust so I wasn’t really sure whether I should grade out. In the end I ended up cutting out a size 0 at the bust, 2 at the waist and 4 at the hips. Since my hip measurement was 3 sizes larger than the size 4 I figured that would give me plenty of room without going overboard. I also shortened the waist 1/2″. After the jumpsuit was finished I ended up cutting 1″ off of the hem and then folding the hemp up 1/4″ and then 1/2″, which is a slightly larger hem than the pattern is drafted for. I’m 5’2″ and definitely would have expected to need to shorten the jumpsuit a lot more so if you are taller you may want to add length or make a muslin.

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I love how the jumpsuit came out and I feel like its definitely something that I can wear again and dress down for a more casual look. The fabric is the Viscose Linen Noil in Ocean Mist from Blackbird Fabrics. The jumpsuit wads super comfortable to wear and definitely the right choice for the outdoor wedding.

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By the time I had picked out which pattern I wanted to make and gotten the pattern printed I basically had one weekend to get this done. Luckily it came together super quickly and I even had time to make my boyfriend a tie. It was my first time making a tie and I used a free pattern. I can’t say that I would recommend that pattern though so I won’t mention which one because it was a bit wonky and the pattern pieces didn’t line up quite right. If I decide to make a tie in the future I’d definitely spend money on a pattern and eliminate the headache.

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I am in the middle of eating a cracker in this picture and you can definitely tell but I have no regrets.

Anna Dress/ Burnside Bibs Mash Up

Last week I posted about the dress I made that I was originally planning to wear to a wedding. When I found out that I needed to wear sage green to the wedding it was clear that I needed a plan B. Since I was already almost done making the Eve Dress I didn’t want to make that pattern again just in a different fabric. I ended up getting a linen viscose blend in ocean mist (not exactly sage but I got approval from the bride) from blackbird fabrics to wear to the wedding so I wanted make something that would suit the fabric. I also don’t wear a lot/ any sage green and I also don’t go to many weddings so I was feeling a bit out of my comfort zone for what to make. I wanted to make something that would be fun to wear and be a bit unexpected. I decided I wanted to make a jumpsuit.

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After looking at jumpsuit patterns I didn’t see any patterns that were exactly what I wanted. I really liked the fit in the legs of my burnside bibs and I had also recently made the By Hand London Anna Dress and was really happy with the fit in the bodice of that dress so I decided instead of starting from a whole new jumpsuit pattern I would mash up two patterns that I had recently made.

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Needless to say this was a lot more difficult than I thought it would be. I knew the biggest issue would be getting the waistline on the pants to match up with the waistline on the bodice. Because the burnside bibs are gathered up in the tie in the back there is definitely more fabric than you actually would want in a jumpsuit. When I went to line it up the waistline on the bodice back was actually longer than the waistline on the back of the bibs pants. I spent a long time trying to get all of the seams to match up. The bibs front also needed to be extended up since part of the bib actually meets the back. Since I was getting rid of the bib I had to add length to the front above the crotch to make sure that the front and back legs were the same length.

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At this point you might be thinking “… but this clearly is not sage green”. You are correct. This is just my wearable muslin of my jumpsuit made out of some Robert Kaufman Brussels washer linen I had sitting around for a while. As this was my first version there are definitely changes I want to make for my next version. The front crotch length is a bit too long, which also makes the hip point too low so there are drag lines there as well. Additionally I don’t really like the proportions of how high the pants come up. I would probably draft a waistband piece to go between the bodice and pants to visually create a line across my body at that point.

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Coming up probably next week will be the end result of what I actually ended up making to wear to the wedding!

Floral Sew Over It Eve

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This is actually the second Sew Over It Eve Dress I’ve made. I made one other version for my mom but this is the first time that I made one for myself. Normally I grade out at the waist and hips since I’m usually a larger size at those points but for this dress I just made a straight size 8, which worked out perfectly. I did shorten the bodice by 1″ but I did not shorten the skirt to give it more of a midi length.

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I love the flutter sleeves and the high low hem on this dress. The wrap is super comfortable and I really like that it makes the dress adjustable. That meant I didn’t have to worry too much about fit on this one!

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I originally wanted to make this dress to wear to a wedding in August. I even included in my make 9 back in January. I was half way through making this dress when I found out that I actually needed to wear sage green to the wedding. I’m not in the wedding party so I thought I was free to wear whatever I want but apparently as the girlfriend of a family member of the groom I was expected to wear a certain color… so it was back to the drawing board for what to wear to the wedding. I’ll do another post soon on that 🙂

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I really love this fabric. It is a rayon voile and I originally got it from Blackbird fabrics but it looks like they are sold out. I’ve seen it at other fabric stores since then though so you might be able to find it. I really like floral prints but I’ve struggled to find ones that aren’t too young looking and in colors that I like. This one definitely checked all of my floral fabric boxes! I have a little bit of this fabric left over so I’m going to need to figure out what else I can make out of what I have left over!

By Hand London Anna Dress

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I already blogged by second version of my By Hand London Anna Dress so I figured it was about time to blog my first version! This version doesn’t get worn often but does get worn for special occasions. I’ll definitely end up wearing my second version more but I do really love this dress.

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The Anna Dress bodice is very distinctive and after looking at many versions I had an idea of how I wanted the bodice to fit on my body. I made 3 muslins for the bodice to tweak the fit and I ended up making a lot of adjustments to the bodice. I ended up taking a lot of height out of the bodice front – probably about 1 1/2 inches. I also followed the back neckline tutorial on the Ginger makes blog to fix the gaping at the back. I ended up taking 3/4 inch out of each side of the back. I’m also short (5′ 2″) so I had to shorten the skirt by 8 inches!!! I made some fitting adjustments before making my second version and I’m really happy with the fit on that version.

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I really took my time on sewing this dress. I used french seams on all the possible seams, and hand stitched many other areas (hem, slit opening, sleeve hems). I really love all of the beautiful finishing and I think that those touches really make the dress feel special. The directions do not have you interface the neckline facing and so I didn’t interface the facing on either this dress or my second dress but I wish I did go ahead and interface the neckline facing to help the facing lay flat and help the neckline keep its shape… Next time!

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The fabric is the Lottie Floral Rayon from the miramar collection by workroom social. I recently used a different fabric from this line for my Grainline Studio Hadley top. In both cases I absolutely loved working with the fabric both times. I really love the coral color on this one paired with bright blue and dark teal.

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While I don’t get to wear this dress often I did wear it to a Luau in Hawaii last summer and it was absolutely perfect.

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Another Ogden with Fabric from my Zadie

I’ve made several Ogden Camis in the past. Basically any time I have enough fabric left over from my last project I make an ogden. I actually haven’t been wearing my ogdens that much this summer and at this point I have a ton of them so I may need to find another pattern soon that will use such a small amount of fabric. I do love layering my ogdens so I actually think I get more wear out of them in cooler months.

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This one is made out of scraps left over from my Zadie Jumpsuit (both of which are made out of the mora slub linen viscose blend from Stonemountain and Daughter). I had just barely enough fabric to cut this out and ended up cutting one of the lining pieces on the cross grain, which seems to have worked out ok in this fabric!

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Even though I’ve made several ogden cami’s in the past this time I cut a size 0 which is a size down from the ones I’ve made in the past. I’ve changed shape a little since my first ogden cami so I definitely needed to size down. Maybe I’ll end up wearing this version more because the fit is much better than my previous ogdens.

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Speaking of my previous ogden cami’s, heres all the ogdens I’ve made:

  1. Black and White ogden
  2. Liberty ogden, Chambray ogden and Red Floral ogden all in one post
  3. Tropical ogden dress hack

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Zadie Romper

I’ve been loving my first Zadie Jumpsuit but since its Summer I wanted a shorts version. I made this version out of the sandwashed rayon from Stonemountain and Daughter. I really love this fabric! It is so comfortable to wear and I love the slight color variations. Also – I used 2 yards of fabric for the shorts version cut single layer (size 6 at the bust size 8 at the hips).

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I made a lot of changes from my first version. I took an additional 1/2″ from the length of the bodice. I also sized down one size in the legs. I drafted a facing instead of bias tape to finish the neckline opening. In order to do this I also added 3/8″ seam allowance to the neckline. I interfaced my facings, the pocket openings on the front pant, waist ties and either side of the slit in the seam that the waist tie goes through. I also stay stitched before starting any of the other steps. I stay stitched the front and back bodice neckline, the pocket side of the pocket opening and the back crotch seam. Because I wanted to make the shorts version but I wasn’t sure how much I would need to shorten them I gave myself 9″ down from the crotch (which was too much – next time I’d probably give myself 7″ which will still be plenty).

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The first version I made I pretty much followed the instructions as they were written but for this version I went more with my gut on the order to do things. For example some of the seams I serged the raw edge on before sewing the seam instead of sewing the seam and then serging the edges separately. I love the end result of both versions but this version definitely took more time to make (re:interfacing). I hope the changes I made will help it stand the test of time because I love this romper and I want to wear it until I’m 100 years old at least.

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What do you think? Do you follow pattern instructions exactly as they were written or do you just follow your instinct when sewing the pattern together? I’m definitely the type of person who likes to follow directions exactly so I felt like a bit of a rebel doing things my own way on this one but it felt GOOD!