I’ve been loving my first Zadie Jumpsuit but since its Summer I wanted a shorts version. I made this version out of the sandwashed rayon from Stonemountain and Daughter. I really love this fabric! It is so comfortable to wear and I love the slight color variations. Also – I used 2 yards of fabric for the shorts version cut single layer (size 6 at the bust size 8 at the hips).
I made a lot of changes from my first version. I took an additional 1/2″ from the length of the bodice. I also sized down one size in the legs. I drafted a facing instead of bias tape to finish the neckline opening. In order to do this I also added 3/8″ seam allowance to the neckline. I interfaced my facings, the pocket openings on the front pant, waist ties and either side of the slit in the seam that the waist tie goes through. I also stay stitched before starting any of the other steps. I stay stitched the front and back bodice neckline, the pocket side of the pocket opening and the back crotch seam. Because I wanted to make the shorts version but I wasn’t sure how much I would need to shorten them I gave myself 9″ down from the crotch (which was too much – next time I’d probably give myself 7″ which will still be plenty).
The first version I made I pretty much followed the instructions as they were written but for this version I went more with my gut on the order to do things. For example some of the seams I serged the raw edge on before sewing the seam instead of sewing the seam and then serging the edges separately. I love the end result of both versions but this version definitely took more time to make (re:interfacing). I hope the changes I made will help it stand the test of time because I love this romper and I want to wear it until I’m 100 years old at least.
What do you think? Do you follow pattern instructions exactly as they were written or do you just follow your instinct when sewing the pattern together? I’m definitely the type of person who likes to follow directions exactly so I felt like a bit of a rebel doing things my own way on this one but it felt GOOD!
Don’t tell my other willow tanks but this version is by far my favorite. The fabric just hangs away from my body and is so light and airy. It feels amazing to wear and I’m sure this is going to get lots of wears! I used the Loominous fabric by Anna Maria Horner. The design is completely woven in to the fabric!
Just look how cool that fabric is! I got this fabric from a local quilting shop and they didn’t quite have enough fabric but I made it work and was able to fit it all on the fabric I had.
I’ve made the high rise Ginger Jeans and two pairs of low rise but I’ve been wanting something more in the middle so I decided I wanted to try the mid-rise version. Since I’ve been struggling a bit with the fit I wanted to make a short muslin of the mid-rise before I go for the full length jeans. These shorts are definitely my best fitting pair so far but I’m still struggling with the crotch. This fabric does stretch out throughout the day and is a bit thinner and with a higher sheen than the cone mills denim I used for my other pairs so it definitely shows the wrinkles more. Other than that they fit pretty well though… I’m thinking that I might try the Megan Nielsen Ash Jeans though to see if those have the same issues with the crotch. Have any of you tried the ash jeans? From pictures it seems like people aren’t having as many crotch issues but it also calls for fabric with more stretch…
I adjusted the back yoke since my last pair and they are fitting much better in that area! I feel like I’m really close on getting this pattern to fit exactly how I want it to but I’m also a bit discouraged that after 4 versions I still haven’t figured out the crotch… I took apart a pair of ready to wear jeans that were threadbare and I’m hoping to compare those to my pattern for the Ginger Jeans that I’ve been adjusting and the Ash Jeans and then decide what my next step will be.
This is actually the second By Hand London Anna Dress that I’ve made but I haven’t taken photos of my first one for a blog post yet. Hopefully I’ll get to that soon but for now here is my midi length version! For my first version I made several muslins and adjustments to the bodice because I wanted a more fitted look. I made a couple more adjustments for this version and if I make another version I may make even more tweaks but overall I’m really happy with how it came out!
I used the April Rhodes Heritage Rayon for this dress and I absolutely loved working with it. I didn’t do any pattern matching on this (which would have been a huge pain with all of the skirt panels) and because the print is so busy you can’t really tell! I just barely squeezed this dress out of 2 yards of fabric!
One thing I still need to perfect is the fit in the back neckline. I did take a pretty big amount out of the neckline but I could take a bit more out to get it to lay completely flat.
I love the slit on one side! I don’t know that I’ll make another Anna in the near future but I’ve been thinking about making a skirt. I’ve also used the bodice for another project recently which will be on the blog at some point but maybe not for a couple of months!
I used the same size I had when I made my first version but after I was almost completely done I tried it on and it was way too big! I ended up taking in the side seams/ facing side seams quite a bit and now I’m happy with the fit! Next time though I’ll probably re-measure and probably cut a different size. I may also raise the neckline just slightly because even though it is very elegant its a little low for everyday for me.
I also love the shape of the hem on this shirt. My first version was the higher neckline which has a hook and eye closure at the back. I don’t know why but my hook and eye never stay closed! I think I may need a narrow shoulder adjustment or something to get the top to lay flat against my skin to prevent it from coming open but until I figure that out I’ll just stick with the lower neck version that doesn’t require the hook and eye.
I made view B which is the “sleeveless” version. I made size 6 at the bust and graded out to size 10 at waist/ hips. I shortened bodice 1/2″ and I shortened crotch rise 2″. Next time I might size down in the legs and shorten the bodice more. I also might do a sway back adjustment. I also love all of the shorts versions I’ve seen so I might do that next.
Although I love the pattern there are a couple of things that I’d change for next time. The bias binding method is different from any method I’ve seen. The Coco’s Loft blog has some tips that look like they’d end up with a better result. In the end I did a bias facing instead of a bias binding. I followed the instructions from Blue Prints for Sewing on sewing a bias tape facing as although she has instructions for sewing the binding as well that look excellent. If I make this again I’d create a facing for the neckline instead of using bias tape. It seems like a pretty common adjustment to add a facing. The Joanna Essentials blog has a tutorial for creating the facing pieces so I’ll definitely try that next.
I think because I changed the way I finished the neckline my waist tie ended up folding over in a weird way and came out above the wrap point instead of below. was pretty unhappy with the way it felt until I realize that my ties were in the wrong place and not parallel to the ground. Once I moved them to the right place the ties weren’t pulling in a weird spot and now I’m super happy with the fit. The extra 30 minutes to redo the waist ties was definitely worth it!