At the last minute I decided to participate in Shirt Month and just barely made the deadline to finish my shirt by February 28th. I made the Deer and Doe Melilot. This is my second time making the Melilot. The first Melilot I made has a few mistakes and I wanted to see if I could remedy those mistakes with a new version.
In my original version I followed my measurements to grade out at the hips because I am quite pear shaped. However, my hips are most wide really below where a shirt would hit me. The shirt also has a good amount of ease built in to it so grading up wasn’t strictly necessary to get the shirt to fit me. This means that I graded up way too much and the shirt kinda sticks out at the sides. For this version I graded from a size 34 at the bust and waist out to a size 36 at the hips. I also shortened this version by 1″. My first version I shortened by 2″ and it would come untucked at the sides.
Another detail I stole from the Kalle was the bias faced hem. The Melilot directions have you just turn up the hem and sew it and my first version sticks out at the sides. I got a much flatter hem, especially at the curve, with the bias tape method.
Next time I make this I think I will also steal the sleeve cuffs from the Kalle. The cuffs on this version are just a rectangle folded in half and they stick out quite a bit. This apparently bothered me with my first version but I didn’t remember so I didn’t change it for this version. The cuffs on the Kalle are shaped and lay a lot flatter. At this point should I just make the Kalle instead of the Melilot? The body shape of the shirt is a lot different so I think I’ll just mash up the patterns and make a Kall-iliot? The Kalle is very boxy and comes in a cropped, tunic or dress length so the Melilot with some details from the Kalle really is a completely different shirt pattern.
I used this rayon cotton floral voile from blackbird fabrics and I absolutely love it! It is super easy to sew with. even though it is very light weight it is not shifty at all. Because it is so light weight I’m not sure that I would make a dress out of it but I do love the fabric for a top. Originally I didn’t want to pattern match the front because the button band/ shirt details get lost in the pattern but when I didn’t pattern match I got some weird twinning of the pattern on the front so I ended up re-cutting one of the sides and pattern matching to avoid any unwanted twinning.
Anyway, I’m so glad I decided to make this shirt at the last minute because I’ve already worn it a ton. At first I was a little worried that it looked too much like a Hawaiian shirt but I’ve been wearing it tucked in mostly and I feel like that reduces the Hawaiian shirt vibes.
I would have never thought that I would make a fanny pack but when I saw fanny packs that my friend Maeve was making I was intrigued. I was pumped when she asked me to be a pattern tester for the Pooze Pouch!
I made the fanny pack out of a kid skin leather. Kid skin leather is very thin and thus fairly easy to work with. I made this entire fanny pack using my Kenmore sewing machine that my dad got for me before I went to college. There are certainly some spots where I struggled but overall my machine was able to handle it just fine. However, I will say that using leather for my first time making this pattern maybe wasn’t the best choice. It would have been a lot easier to be able to use pins on this pattern especially since this was my first fanny pack. The pattern says it is for “the adventurous sewer” and I’d agree with that. Making this fanny pack stretched my sewing brain more than any other project has in a long while. However, I have been struggling with fit lately on a couple garments in a row and it was so refreshing to not have to worry about fitting on this one!
I lined it with left over fabric from my Deer and Doe Melilot. This pattern is perfect for scrap busting! I just really love the Robert Kaufman dot chambray that I used for the lining so much that I almost wish that I used that for the outer instead of the leather. I think I may have enough left over for another Pooze Pouch though… The Pooze Pouch is fully lined. The way you line the bag is so smart because even though the bag is fully lined and all seams are enclosed, the lining is attached to the outer bag so the lining is stabilized.
Instead of getting a regular zipper I got zipper tape and sides to create my dream zipper. I used two slides for the main pocket for ease of access. I would not recommend doing this for your first time since my seam allowance of my zipper was different than what the pattern was drafted for and I had to make some adjustments when sewing in the zipper. However, I’m super happy with how my zipper came out!
I haven’t been wearing my Pooze Pouch much since its been pretty cold here until recently. I’m excited to wear this especially while walking my dog or going places where I want easy access to my things. However, part of me feels like I’m just not trendy enough to pull off wearing a fanny pack. It seems like wearing it as a cross body bag is pretty popular but I may have made my webbing a little too short… I like wearing it at my waist but it will take some getting used to.
I honestly love making the Kalle. The instructions are great! The drafting is great! Its easy to fit! I’m especially proud of my pop-over placket on this one.
I also love the dramatic high low hem. The tunic and shirtdress both have a bias tape hem finish which helps the hem lay flat. I really love the end result and have started adding this to other button up shirts.
I also really love this fabric. It is a chambray shirting that I got a while back while I was in NYC for Camp Workroom Social. It presses really nicely and doesn’t get super wrinkly throughout the day.
I also love the box pleat at the back. I feel like I’ll get the most wear out of this tunic in the fall when I can layer it with leggings and cardigans. I wore my dress version of the Kalle a lot last Summer and I may end up making another one just to have another one to wear!
One of my favorite makes from this winter was the Talvikki Sweater by Named Clothing. This is my first time making a pattern by Named although I’ve had the Inari Dress pattern for forever and never ended up making it.
There are a couple of details that this pattern has that I’m obsessed with. The main one is the back hem. You may have noticed that I love a split hem but I never realized what I was missing out on with this slightly curved back hem. While I was sewing this up I was just amazed by the slight curve on the back hem and how little details like that really make a garment special.
I also love the turtleneck. I am not super in to turtlenecks so I like that the band sits further away from you neck. I love the darts that shape the collar – such a fun detail!! I love that this sweatshirt is so easy to throw on but I still feel trendy and cool when I’m wearing it because of all of the thoughtful details.
The fabric I used is the Moon Dust Double Knit in Navy with Pink Speckle from blackbird fabrics. The fabric is a wool blend with a polyester backing so it is warm without having the itchy wool against your skin. The backing of the fabric is black. It seems like the Talvikki is meant to have the sleeves rolled up, which doesn’t really work with the black backing on this fabric. Instead I slimmed down the sleeves significantly so that they aren’t getting in the way.
I’m also wearing my third pair of Avery Leggings by Helen’s Closet. They aren’t that interesting in these pictures but I’m going to get so much wear out of them and they are so comfy!
I got this amazing quilted knit fabric about a year and a half ago in the garment district in NYC. I used the Linden Sweatshirt pattern by Grainline Studio. I’ve made this pattern in the past twice – a black and white version with a split hem band and a cropped tropical version. It had been a long time since I made either of those and I forgot how much I like this pattern. It sews up super quickly and I absolutely love the way that all of my versions have turned out. My past two versions were made of fabrics that … I probably wouldn’t use again… I chose them more for the print/pattern than for the feel of the fabrics. But I still wear both of those sweatshirts all of time!
I altered the pattern to have a split hem. I essentially just lengthened both the front and back pieces by different amounts. After I sewed the sleeves to the front and back pieces I finished the edges of the under arm/body pieces separately. I could then sew from the wrist up to the armpit and back down, stopping at the point I wanted my vent to start. I then hemmed the rest of the top, pivoting at the vents to sew the seam allowance down around both vents. I also lengthened the sleeves and omitted the cuffs on the sleeves. If I was going to make this again I would keep the cuffs because the seam on the sleeves is a little bulky and the hem cuff would at least contain the seam allowances at the wrists.
The split goes pretty high and the back is a lot longer than a typical sweatshirt. I really like having the top lengthened because I like the drama of it and it makes it feel extra cosy.
In the future I think I’d make a version out of a bamboo terry or a fabric that is a little softer since I think I would wear it so much. This version is super cosy and I love it but its a little bulky so its a little harder to wear.