By Hand London Anna Dress

fullsizeoutput_19de

I already blogged by second version of my By Hand London Anna Dress so I figured it was about time to blog my first version! This version doesn’t get worn often but does get worn for special occasions. I’ll definitely end up wearing my second version more but I do really love this dress.

fullsizeoutput_1a01

The Anna Dress bodice is very distinctive and after looking at many versions I had an idea of how I wanted the bodice to fit on my body. I made 3 muslins for the bodice to tweak the fit and I ended up making a lot of adjustments to the bodice. I ended up taking a lot of height out of the bodice front – probably about 1 1/2 inches. I also followed the back neckline tutorial on the Ginger makes blog to fix the gaping at the back. I ended up taking 3/4 inch out of each side of the back. I’m also short (5′ 2″) so I had to shorten the skirt by 8 inches!!! I made some fitting adjustments before making my second version and I’m really happy with the fit on that version.

IMG_7713

I really took my time on sewing this dress. I used french seams on all the possible seams, and hand stitched many other areas (hem, slit opening, sleeve hems). I really love all of the beautiful finishing and I think that those touches really make the dress feel special. The directions do not have you interface the neckline facing and so I didn’t interface the facing on either this dress or my second dress but I wish I did go ahead and interface the neckline facing to help the facing lay flat and help the neckline keep its shape… Next time!

fullsizeoutput_1a09

The fabric is the Lottie Floral Rayon from the miramar collection by workroom social. I recently used a different fabric from this line for my Grainline Studio Hadley top. In both cases I absolutely loved working with the fabric both times. I really love the coral color on this one paired with bright blue and dark teal.

fullsizeoutput_1a07

While I don’t get to wear this dress often I did wear it to a Luau in Hawaii last summer and it was absolutely perfect.

IMG_3414

Advertisements

Another Ogden with Fabric from my Zadie

I’ve made several Ogden Camis in the past. Basically any time I have enough fabric left over from my last project I make an ogden. I actually haven’t been wearing my ogdens that much this summer and at this point I have a ton of them so I may need to find another pattern soon that will use such a small amount of fabric. I do love layering my ogdens so I actually think I get more wear out of them in cooler months.

fullsizeoutput_1a59

This one is made out of scraps left over from my Zadie Jumpsuit (both of which are made out of the mora slub linen viscose blend from Stonemountain and Daughter). I had just barely enough fabric to cut this out and ended up cutting one of the lining pieces on the cross grain, which seems to have worked out ok in this fabric!

fullsizeoutput_1a53

Even though I’ve made several ogden cami’s in the past this time I cut a size 0 which is a size down from the ones I’ve made in the past. I’ve changed shape a little since my first ogden cami so I definitely needed to size down. Maybe I’ll end up wearing this version more because the fit is much better than my previous ogdens.

fullsizeoutput_1a49

Speaking of my previous ogden cami’s, heres all the ogdens I’ve made:

  1. Black and White ogden
  2. Liberty ogden, Chambray ogden and Red Floral ogden all in one post
  3. Tropical ogden dress hack

fullsizeoutput_1a56

Zadie Romper

I’ve been loving my first Zadie Jumpsuit but since its Summer I wanted a shorts version. I made this version out of the sandwashed rayon from Stonemountain and Daughter. I really love this fabric! It is so comfortable to wear and I love the slight color variations. Also – I used 2 yards of fabric for the shorts version cut single layer (size 6 at the bust size 8 at the hips).

fullsizeoutput_19c9.jpeg

I made a lot of changes from my first version. I took an additional 1/2″ from the length of the bodice. I also sized down one size in the legs. I drafted a facing instead of bias tape to finish the neckline opening. In order to do this I also added 3/8″ seam allowance to the neckline. I interfaced my facings, the pocket openings on the front pant, waist ties and either side of the slit in the seam that the waist tie goes through. I also stay stitched before starting any of the other steps. I stay stitched the front and back bodice neckline, the pocket side of the pocket opening and the back crotch seam. Because I wanted to make the shorts version but I wasn’t sure how much I would need to shorten them I gave myself 9″ down from the crotch (which was too much – next time I’d probably give myself 7″ which will still be plenty).

fullsizeoutput_19bd

The first version I made I pretty much followed the instructions as they were written but for this version I went more with my gut on the order to do things. For example some of the seams I serged the raw edge on before sewing the seam instead of sewing the seam and then serging the edges separately. I love the end result of both versions but this version definitely took more time to make (re:interfacing). I hope the changes I made will help it stand the test of time because I love this romper and I want to wear it until I’m 100 years old at least.

fullsizeoutput_19b8

What do you think? Do you follow pattern instructions exactly as they were written or do you just follow your instinct when sewing the pattern together? I’m definitely the type of person who likes to follow directions exactly so I felt like a bit of a rebel doing things my own way on this one but it felt GOOD!

Willow Tank And Ginger Jorts

This post is going to be a 2 for 1 but I’ve made both of these patterns before! I made the Grainline Studio Willow Tank and the Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans as shorts. I’ve made two versions of the willow tank before (a cropped version and a regular version) and I’ve made three pairs of Ginger Jeans before. Version one is the high waisted version. I actually used left over denim from that version to make these shorts so its a pretty interesting comparison to see how far I’ve come since my first Ginger Jeans! Version two and version three are both the low rise version.

fullsizeoutput_19c7

Don’t tell my other willow tanks but this version is by far my favorite. The fabric just hangs away from my body and is so light and airy. It feels amazing to wear and I’m sure this is going to get lots of wears! I used the Loominous fabric by Anna Maria Horner. The design is completely woven in to the fabric!

fullsizeoutput_19c2

Just look how cool that fabric is! I got this fabric from a local quilting shop and they didn’t quite have enough fabric but I made it work and was able to fit it all on the fabric I had.

fullsizeoutput_19c6

I’ve made the high rise Ginger Jeans and two pairs of low rise but I’ve been wanting something more in the middle so I decided I wanted to try the mid-rise version. Since I’ve been struggling a bit with the fit I wanted to make a short muslin of the mid-rise before I go for the full length jeans. These shorts are definitely my best fitting pair so far but I’m still struggling with the crotch. This fabric does stretch out throughout the day and is a bit thinner and with a higher sheen than the cone mills denim I used for my other pairs so it definitely shows the wrinkles more. Other than that they fit pretty well though… I’m thinking that I might try the Megan Nielsen Ash Jeans though to see if those have the same issues with the crotch. Have any of you tried the ash jeans? From pictures it seems like people aren’t having as many crotch issues but it also calls for fabric with more stretch…

fullsizeoutput_19c1

I adjusted the back yoke since my last pair and they are fitting much better in that area! I feel like I’m really close on getting this pattern to fit exactly how I want it to but I’m also a bit discouraged that after 4 versions I still haven’t figured out the crotch… I took apart a pair of ready to wear jeans that were threadbare and I’m hoping to compare those to my pattern for the Ginger Jeans that I’ve been adjusting and the Ash Jeans and then decide what my next step will be.

Midi By Hand London Anna Dress

This is actually the second By Hand London Anna Dress that I’ve made but I haven’t taken photos of my first one for a blog post yet. Hopefully I’ll get to that soon but for now here is my midi length version! For my first version I made several muslins and adjustments to the bodice because I wanted a more fitted look. I made a couple more adjustments for this version and if I make another version I may make even more tweaks but overall I’m really happy with how it came out!

fullsizeoutput_18c4

I used the April Rhodes Heritage Rayon for this dress and I absolutely loved working with it. I didn’t do any pattern matching on this (which would have been a huge pain with all of the skirt panels) and because the print is so busy you can’t really tell! I just barely squeezed this dress out of 2 yards of fabric!

fullsizeoutput_18b3

One thing I still need to perfect is the fit in the back neckline. I did take a pretty big amount out of the neckline but I could take a bit more out to get it to lay completely flat.

fullsizeoutput_18b6

I love the slit on one side! I don’t know that I’ll make another Anna in the near future but I’ve been thinking about making a skirt. I’ve also used the bodice for another project recently which will be on the blog at some point but maybe not for a couple of months!

Grainline Hadley Tank

I’ve made the Grainline Hadley before in a double gauze but I’ve always loved the v-neck version. I think the neckline looks so good on everyone – so flattering and elegant! I used the Splatter Paint rayon fabric from Workroom Social. I absolutely loved working with this fabric – it feels more substantial than other rayon fabrics that I’ve used and is pretty easy to work with.

fullsizeoutput_1985.jpeg

I used the same size I had when I made my first version but after I was almost completely done I tried it on and it was way too big! I ended up taking in the side seams/ facing side seams quite a bit and now I’m happy with the fit! Next time though I’ll probably re-measure and probably cut a different size. I may also raise the neckline just slightly because even though it is very elegant its a little low for everyday for me.

fullsizeoutput_197f

I also love the shape of the hem on this shirt. My first version was the higher neckline which has a hook and eye closure at the back. I don’t know why but my hook and eye never stay closed! I think I may need a narrow shoulder adjustment or something to get the top to lay flat against my skin to prevent it from coming open but until I figure that out I’ll just stick with the lower neck version that doesn’t require the hook and eye.

fullsizeoutput_1982

This tank top is also perfect for layering underneath cardigans. I’m wearing it here with my Helen’s closet blackwood cardigan, which I love.

Photos in this post were taken by the lovely Emmanuelle of the Zoubi Zoubisou blog.

Zadie Jumpsuit

fullsizeoutput_196a.jpeg

I made the Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory Patterns. I had included a wrap jumpsuit in my 2019 make 9 and the Zadie Jumpsuit came out pretty soon after. It seems like everyone has been making it and it looks great on everyone! I am wearing my Zadie with the sandals I made that I posted about last week!

fullsizeoutput_196c

I made view B which is the “sleeveless” version. I made size 6 at the bust and graded out to size 10 at waist/ hips. I shortened bodice 1/2″ and I shortened crotch rise 2″. Next time I might size down in the legs and shorten the bodice more. I also might do a sway back adjustment. I also love all of the shorts versions I’ve seen so I might do that next. 

fullsizeoutput_196f

Although I love the pattern there are a couple of things that I’d change for next time. The bias binding method is different from any method I’ve seen. The Coco’s Loft blog has some tips that look like they’d end up with a better result. In the end I did a bias facing instead of a bias binding. I followed the instructions from Blue Prints for Sewing on sewing a bias tape facing as although she has instructions for sewing the binding as well that look excellent. If I make this again I’d create a facing for the neckline instead of using bias tape. It seems like a pretty common adjustment to add a facing. The Joanna Essentials blog has a tutorial for creating the facing pieces so I’ll definitely try that next.

I think because I changed the way I finished the neckline my waist tie ended up folding over in a weird way and came out above the wrap point instead of below. was pretty unhappy with the way it felt until I realize that my ties were in the wrong place and not parallel to the ground. Once I moved them to the right place the ties weren’t pulling in a weird spot and now I’m super happy with the fit. The extra 30 minutes to redo the waist ties was definitely worth it!

fullsizeoutput_196e

I used the mora slub linen viscose blend from Stonemountain and Daughter. The fabric was pretty shifty and grew quite a bit while I was working with it. Next time I’d interface the pocket bag openings and I’d either interface or stay stitch the back crotch seam.

Otherwise its super comfortable and fun to wear! I’m sure I’ll get a ton of wear out of it this summer.